aggienaut: (Default)
Sunday, May 14th, my 41st birthday - Bailo the driver went to get the beekeeping federation (FAPI) staff while Bara and i had breakfast. I asked for coffee w milk and got literally handed a cup of hot milk and a packet of nescafe.

Bailo returned with what looked like a packed car: four women and two men from FAPI. Yet somehow we also fit Bara and i in as well. Most (all?) The FAPI people I've met before but i was particularly excited to see again Khalidou, their main trainer and he was with me on most of my previous Guinea projects.

Then we drove an hour (?) to this village of Timbi-Touni out away from the main road way out in the countryside. There, including the FAPI staff we had about 7 women and 10 men, which is an unusually good proportion. Presented about proper topbar hive construction and common problems with them until 2. At which point everyone we broke for lunch. And because my parents woke up and messaged me at that time i video called them and introduced them to a few of the people around me.



Then everyone did their prayers. Then we headed out to the bees!

We proceeded just a short distance out of the village to where there were a lot of beehives. Got all suited up. Most of the hives were vacant but we found a few occupied ones and harvested some honey. And one of them was strong enough to split which is always a good lesson, especially when increasing the number of hives is a priority interest. And we don't always have a strong enough hive to demonstrate with, but here we were! So we did! Bees were pretty nice, was able to work without gloves.



Then we headed overland to the village of Doumba where i was in 2015. By overland i mean taking basically 4×4 tracks through scattered farms and open grasslands. Generally being a little lost but it was never long until we'd encounter someone else and ask for directions. By and by we came to Doumba.



The village of Sanpiring has a special place in my heart because it was the first village i was based in, but i think i might have to admit with their picturesque beautiful giant huts Doumba village might be prettier. Revisiting it now for the first time since i was there 8 years ago I'm struck by how lucky i was to have been able to spend two weeks in such a beautiful place.

Many of the local men were there to welcome me back. Including the local mayor, who as it happens had been my host when i was there.



Then we all sat down and there was a bit of speech making. They thanked me extensively for my training and as well for coming back to see them. When it came time for me to speak, I'm not much for speechifying at length so i was just conveyed in a few quick sentences how much i enjoyed my time there, and appreciate their hospitality, and their welcome back. Which felt awkwardly short after they'd just talked for many minutes. But then as my translator Bara began translation what I'd said, bless him, he appeared to be conveying some analogy about a plant growing fruits or something, entirely of his own invention ahahaha.

Then we were fed some fonio (a Guinean grain kind of vaguely like a cross between couscous and rice. And some delicious mangoes. Then many pictures were taken, and then we had to go so we wouldn't be driving too much in the dark.

Hour drive back. Dark by the time we got back. Oh I should note that despite the packed car and long hours of driving over bumpy terrain today, everyone was in stitches laughing the whole time. Unfortunately it was all in local language so i didn't have any idea what it was about but they seemed to be having a hilarious time.

Got back to the hotel. Bara and i went in, while Bailo drove the others home.

"Let's just go in the restaurant real quick" Bara suggested, and i like to be obliging so sure. I was slightly surprised when Bara didn't order anything, i was expecting maybe he was after a coffee or something. But i honestly didn't suspect anything, I'm perfectly happy to sit in the restaurant if that's what he wants to do (i was catching up on things on my phone).

Then i looked up and the FAPI staff were coming in again. This was at least half an hour after i thought they left.
"Oh they're back?" I said, still not suspecting a thing, until they gathered around me and placed a big box on the table, which opened to reveal a birthday cake, and began singing "happy birthday."

I'm pretty sure I've never had a birthday surprise before. And compared to my last birthday, my 40th, to celebrate which i ate pancakes alone in my house, this was a great improvement. Just to be here in Africa would have made it better than last year, but after being welcomed like a returning hero to a beautiful village, and then to have these people surprise me with cake.. pretty sure it qualifies as the best birthday ever (:

aggienaut: (tallships)

   Two weeks ago -- "That uhh, doesn't look safe at all" I say, looking out at the cold water under the mizzen boom. It hangs about ten feet out aft behind the boat, and out at the very end is where the flag halyard apparently gets tied off.
   "Well of course it's not safe, this is a tallship!" says the captain, grinning nefariously from the dock. There's no way to get to the end of the boom except to either shimmy out on the boom itself or walk on the running rigging that runs out there, and one generally does NOT walk on running rigging. I don't consider myself very timorous about taking risks but I'm not dumb and that just didn't add up to something that looked safe to me.
   Nevertheless there was nothing to do but go out there and attach ye olde Stars and Stripes to the flag halyard and so out I went on that precarious line (but not before emptying my pockets of things that would be harmed by a fall into the cold water.

   Later I was in the aft cabin and Jimmy the first mate was there, and the captain came in and crowed to him "I pushed Kris beyond his comfort level today! (and aside to me: "rather on purpose actually") And he rose to it admirably!"


   Two days prior to my birthday (ie May 12th or so) -- someone: "George is completely fouled, won't come down" ("George" being the Washington State Flag, which features George Washington prominently)
   Me: "I'll go up and unfoul him!"
   Captain: "You've already had a beer! (and to the other person) just leave him up for now"

   The day before my birthday -- me: "Sir is George still fouled? He was up this morning when I came up to raise the flags"
   Captain: "Yep! Sounds like a job for the person with galley duty!" (as he walks off). The person with galley duty also has flags. I had galley duty this day. I really don't know if he recalled my enthusiasm for doing it the day before or had forgotten and was hoping to cause me trepidation again.

   That evening as the sun began to set I donned my harness and proceeded aloft. Up to the first yardarm (the main course yard), up past the lower and upper topsails, up to where the shrouds (ie what you use for a ladder) end.

   As you can see in the above picture, where the shrouds come together at the mast there is STILL a good ten feet of mast to go!
   I' reckoned the thing to do was shimmy, though I'd never really tried to shimmy anything. I climbed up to the very top of the shrouds, wrapped my arms and legs around the mast and tried to do this "shimmy" thing and immediately both my legs cramped up.
   I regrouped, stretched a bit, and tried again ... I slid right back down to the shrouds immediately -- I couldnt' get enough traction on the mast!
   I stood there looking at the flag. So close and yet so far. I could actually unfoul it from here, but that would be giving up a golden opportunity.
   You see, the very top of the mast is called the "truck," and tradition goes you are not a real sailor until you've kissed the truck. There are two impediments to doing this -- (1) it's rather hard to get to; and (2) excuses to go up there are hard to come by! At least on our boat, there's really no skylarking -- one doesn't go aloft unless one is doing some specific work. An extracurricular trip to the truck would be frowned upon. I wasn't about to let this slip through my fingers.
   Just above me the stays came together on the mast (you can see them in the above picture as the dark lines that meet the mast right before the white part). They were all also extremely slippery but I figured by bracing myself on two of them, by virtue of the fact that they get rapidly further apart, I should be able to climb higher. So gripping the mast some 80 feet in the air I put first one foot and then the other on the outside of the two closest stay (there's four of them, one from each of the four cardinal directions). One foot on one stay is deathly slippery but being on the outside of two of them seems to work. By so doing I am able to pull myself up the mast until I'm where they meet the mast.
   Now I do have a lanyard on my harness which I have wrapped around the mast (like I said, I'm not crazy), but where the stays meet the mast I have to of course unclip it and re-run it around the mast over the clips. This was perhaps the most precarious part because here I found myself gripping the mast with one arm, my two feet on the tractionless stays, NOT clipped in, as with my other arm I run the lanyard around the mast above the stays.
   Thereafter it was smooth sailing getting up until I was standing on where the stays meet the mast and was about eye level with the truck. Kiss the truck, savor the moment for a moment, watch the sun set, unfoul George, take the picture you'll find below, looking down the entire mast with the top of the truck in the lower right corner (sorry it's blurry, hey you try taking a picture up there! Plus my camera was whining about a low battery and I was in a hurry to get the shot before the battery died). Getting down was the same as getting up but in reverse order




   My birthday: "Hey Kris come here!" says first mate Jimmy with a devilish look in his eye.
   "Uhh, is something horrible going to happen to me?" I ask with some concern, as he leads me to the side of the boat while the whole crew gathers.
   "Yes." he says "empty your pockets"
   No sooner are my pockets empty than he picks me up by my arms and Pony picks up my legs, so I'm slung like a hammock between them, and they start to swing me back and forth next to the side.
   "Where's the dock ladder?" I ask as if we're discussing the best route into town. Alarming things happen, why fight them?
   The crew sings happy birthday to me as Pony and Jimmy swing me to and fro. I contemplate what I'm going to do when I hit the water matter of factly. The song ends and Jimmy informs me "we're not REALLY going to throw you in the water, have you SEEN that water??" and they set me down. I was honestly a bit disappointed, I was ready to go in. But he's right that water often looked pretty gross.

June 2025

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