Busselton

Dec. 6th, 2023 10:41 am
aggienaut: (Default)
Wednesday, November 29th - this is a week ago now but i believe we left our hotel in Perth, We checked out the Perth Botanical Garden (Kings Park) a bit but felt a spot constrained for time and mom felt unwell. Proceeded to drive down to Busselton, two and a half hours south on a major highway.

Busselton is a beach town that feels like it's mainly geared as a vacation destination. At 33.65 degrees south its rather a latitude twin of our hometown of Mission Viejo California (33.59 north), and indeed felt similar with sunny days of perfect weather in the upper 70s (/20s c).

Our hotel was decent, one story and looked like a cheap motel but the walls were very soundproof and it was fairly decent really. Except leaving anything out that could even remotely be considered food brought about ant freeways very quickly and i think there was literally only one free power socket. We were able to free up another by unplugging the TV but there was only one for the toaster/water-boiler/microwave that had to be rotated between whatever was in use. And none of these was near the heads of the beds, one of my perennial hotel complaints.

As the days approached the date of the Ironman (Sunday) we jokingly referred to the hotel as Olympic Village as it seemed to be entirely full of Ironman participants and their families. Dad made several friends.

We were just less than a mile from the beach, though across a busy road that was always difficult to even get onto for the constant stream of cars. The ocean here is Geographe Bay and i was astounded at how little it had waves, it was lapping at the beach with smaller waves than the local lake did the other day. It's weird because it's hardly an enclosed bay at all.



Dad tried swimming but immediately got stung up by jellyfish. Flies on the beach were an enormous nuisance one had to ceaselessly swat in front of one's face.

We drove to downtown Busselton just a ten minute drive away. A lot of the guiding fences and stages were already set up.

One of the famous things in Busselton is a really really long 1841 meter (over a mile!) "jetty" (pier). The first day we walked out a bit of the ways on it. They were selling fly nets at a store on the jetty for $6.50 ea but i foolishly thought the nuisance flies the other day might have been a one time thing and didn't get one. The next day Dad and i walked all the way to the end (mom feeling unwell took a nap in the car), and dad went swimming from a floating dock at near the end. It's not too deep even out there and he was able to touch the bottom. He reported it was really clear.




Thursday dad checked in to the race and such. Flies were again a huge nuisance. We saw people wearing nets over their faces and someone was selling them among the stuff for sale in the check in area, but for $18 it was just a bit too much. We ate at the Shelter Brewing Company on the waterfront and actually had a delicious pizza. To be honest i haven't generally liked pizza in Australia but this one was delicious.

Friday i wanted to go to Cape Augusta because it's literally as far from America as one can get in Australia, and as far as you can get anywhere in the world from the US East Coast, but that being two hours away i was outvoted in favor of nearer options. So we went to the nearby Cape Naturaliste and went for a walk along the coastal scrub with dramatic views of the ocean. Flies were such a nuisance that everyone on the path acquired a short switch of leafy branch to constantly swish in front of their faces. At the lighthouse store (by the actual lighthouse) we learned they had sold out of the last fly net just ten minutes earlier, such sauce! Also learned there'll flies aren't always a problem, apparently many blew in a week or two earlier and in another two or three weeks it was expected that some beetles will have eaten all the fly larvae and ended the fly plague.

Went to a beautiful nearby white sand beach where we found the beach was closed for an hour because a three meter (ten foot!) "bronzy" "bronze shark had recently been spotted just offshore. I'm kind of amused they just close those beach for an hour, like when a turd is found in a public pool.



In the afternoon we went down into nearby Ngligli cave which was fun, a rather extensive cave with lots of stalagtites and stalagmites. Very keen.



We had noticed a whole bunch of cars that said "No Birds!" on the side, with a yellow or green triangle so i thought maybe it was some government program against some invasive bird. Finally curiosity got the better of us and we looked it up, it's a local car rental agency. Apparently the name is a reference to when it was founded their competitors all employed attractive women ("birds") to entice customers, and they did not, which they alleged cut down their costs. Franky i think that sounds like a kind of behind-the-times somewhat sexist name they should probably change.

On the way back to our hotel finally got fly nets at a gas station (for $5 each!).

Saturday was dad's 73rd birthday, though we didn't really celebrate much, he insisted it wasn't his birthday yet back home (or in Rio where he was born). Other than racking his bike and going on a walk along a trail parallel to the beach we mainly took it easy since the next day was to be his race.

Sunday morning woke up at 3:30am to give dad and two other athletes he'd befriended a ride to the race start (a 30ish londoner living in Malaysia and a very friendly retired (55ish) Indian engineer). The Indian, Bharat, said just a month earlier he had failed to finish the Barcelona half Ironman, described being in tears at the end of the day over the failure and had almost given up but was here to try again. Pulling onto the road at 4am it was a parade of cars headed to the race start and not much else. I returned to the hotel after dropping them off, and went back to sleep.

Around 10 maybe mom and i returned to town amd posted ourselves near the running route. We were able to catch dad both times he came past us (they do two loops) but though we kept an eye out for our other two friends and they must have passed the position we didn't see them.




Also were able to watch dad finish. As he crossed the finish line they announced he was the "oldest male finisher!" We talked to the woman who had been announced as the oldest finisher and she was only 71 so i believe he was in fact the oldest finisher.

He came in second in his age group (70-74), but the guy in first was really good. Our London friend had finished three minutes before him and Bharat finished half an hour later. This was a half Ironman, and Bharat is already planning to do the full Ironman in Hamburg in June. He's certainly ambitious!

We didn't meet or see any evidence of any other American participants. See also as far from the US as you can get!

Monday we headed back to Perth. Now dad was feeling sick, and though i didn't mention it i was feeling pretty achey too. We presumably had both gotten what mom had had, though she'd tried to limit cooty exposure.

Back in Perth mom and i explored the Botanical Garden some more at greater length, while this time dad slept in the car.

Stayed in an Ibis hotel near the airport, which dad declared possibly the most budget hotel he'd stayed in (they didn't even give us a new soap, just the soap the previous occupant had used). And of course no plugs near the beds. And disproportionately expensive like all airport hotels.

Flight from there to here Tuesday (yesterday) went smoothly. Dad felt feverish last night but seems better today, though maybe that's the medicine. I thought i was better yesterday but feel slightly under the weather this morning (and refuse all medicine that merely masks symptoms), and mom, whose 71st birthday it is, has gone back to bed after breakfast, which i suppose means she's not feeling 100% yet either. I told her "it's your birthday you can lay in bed if you want to!"

So we're pretty much taking it easy today. But altogether we decided we had a jolly good trip out west.

Rotto

Nov. 30th, 2023 09:59 am
aggienaut: (Default)

Tuesday, November 28th - Woke up realizing I'd made a classic mistake. I'd plugged my phone in overnight but in Australia there's often a switch by the plug to turn it on, which i had not done, so i was beginning a planned long day of sightseeing with a 2% battery! Left it charging while we had breakfast at a bakery down the street and it was up to 60% by the time we actually left the hotel, which was better but i still felt i couldn't use my phone much.

We walked from our hotel about a mile and a half to the ferry stop at the waterfront. The old downtown fremantle area near the waterfront was very nice with classic old buildings with wraparound balconies. It looked clean and renovated and altogether like probably a nice area in the evening with all its bars and restaurants.

The colloquial shorthand for Fremantle is apparently Freo, and we saw some plays on the Spanish frio (cold), i suspect, in signs for "Freo ice cream!" and "Freo cold beer!" (I suspect it was influenced by the Spanish in that signage that didn't reference coldness didn't tend to use "freo")

In my in depth research (by which i mean reading the history sections of both their Wikipedia entries) I'm still sort of unclear on the relationships of Fremantle and Perth. Apparently they were both founded as independent towns within months of eachother in 1829; Fremantle at the mouth of the Swan River and Perth about ten miles in. At some point they grew large enough to merge and now the metropolitan area is referred to as Perth, with me course a Perth proper CBD, and Fremantle as the river mouth neighborhood.

There seemed to be four different ferry companies offering transport to Rottnest Island ("Rotto"), with departures at least every half hour and possibly every ten minutes at peak times. Our 9am ferry seemed to be bracketed by other ferry traffic impatient to use the dock.

Weather all day was nice, mostly sunny but a few very brief smatterings of light precipitation. Temperatures in the 70s f / 20s c. Trip to Rottnest Island about forty minutes.

The first Europeans to come to Rottnest Island were the Dutch in 1619, and the name that finally stuck was given by a Dutch captain in 1696, bestowing upon it the beautiful poetic name of "rat nest Island" in Dutch. The "rats" in question are quokkas, adorable little round cat sized marsupials who lack the good sense to fear humans.



Immediately upon reaching the island these adorable things could be seen hopping about, and truly lacking instincts for self preservation one put its head right under my slightly upraised boot to snuffle at a leaf. Fortunately i saw it. We sat and had lunch and a nearby toddler tried repeatedly to jump on one's tail, but this one did have the good sense to seek shelter under me. It was sorely tempting to pat them as they look so soft but signs warn this is strictly forbidden. Though again small children seemed to take no notice and in most cases their parents seemed to take no notice of their children's activities.



There were a number of ravens (?) perched in the fig trees around the eating area, "practicing their Norwegian vowels" as mom cleverly described it.

Another fact we marveled at was when the guide at the lighthouse told us Rottnest had been connected to the mainland only 7,000 years ago. And aboriginal artifacts dating back 30,000 years have been found on the island. They used to walk here. They saw the sea levels rise to separate the island. Well it was probably imperceptibly slowly but at some point in some aboriginals life time it was possible to walk there and then it wasn't.

The guide also said the sea levels rose higher than they currently are since then and only the tops of the hills were still above water. I'd never heard of a global higher than now sea level, and google just now says the last time that was the case was 130,000 years ago so as I've often found take what guides say with a grain of salt. But other sources do bare out that the island was connected to the mainland 7,000 years ago.

"Aboriginal prisoners contributed to agricultural development of the island" a sign says. Wait what. We all know European prisoners were sent to Australia and did a lot of the manual labor of the early colonies, but "aboriginal prisoners contributed to" sounds a lot like a nice roundabout way of saying "we enslaved the locals." I noticed numerous references to aboriginal prisoners on various informational signs but if there was a source of broad overview information on the island i missed it. But let me quote wikipedia for you:

Between 1838 and 1931, Aboriginal prisoners held on Rottnest Island were held in deplorable conditions and subjected to cruel and inhumane treatment. [...] Although slavery, as legally defined, never existed in Western Australia, the "assignment" system effectively implemented a system of forced labour, and was condemned by Reverend J. B. Gribble and the Anti-Slavery Society. Aboriginal people who refused assignment were sent to Rottnest Island to be "civilised", and were used in chain-gangs to perform hard labour including farming, quarrying, and collecting salt.[35] Most of the island's historic Settlement – including Government House (Hotel Rottnest), the church, Salt Store, museum, gift shop, original waterfront cottages and The Quod – was built by forced Aboriginal prison labour working under extremely harsh conditions.[36]

Apparently 3600 aboriginals came through the island.

Exploring the island by bike seems immensely popular, with mass bikes coming over on the ferry and bicyclists all over the island. Also there's a bus that goes around clockwise, $25 per person for an all day pass. It occurs to me just now i should try to describe the size of the island but as I've discussed with my friends none of us has a very good sense for measurements of surface area. It's 19 square kilometers, which is 1900 hectares, or 4695 acres or 7.3 square miles. Perhaps the important fact is it takes the bus an hour to circle the island.



The island is hilly, and covered with variously low shrubby trees or heathy bushes, and crisscrossed with trails. We proceeded about a quarter way around the island on the bus and got off by the lighthouse, which is near the center at the highest point. On neighboring hills there's a WWII lookout tower and gunnery observation post. The lighthouse is a nice tall white tower, still in use, a tour was beginning in five minutes but we didn't go on it. Went for a walk back from the tower towards the main settlement where we started. It was pleasant. Found very little tourist traffic away from the bike trails, in fact I'm not sure we saw anyone else on foot in several kilometers of walking. Saw some more quokkas but i think they're definitely concentrated by main settlement. Walked past some salty ponds where they used to make the aboriginals mine salt.



Got back on the bus and this time rode it all the way around the island. While at the far end of Rottnest Island we were 15,104 km (9,385 miles) from my parents home address in Southern California. This is certainly the farthest from home they've ever been. This is further than even my travels in Uganda, Ethiopia and Nairobi, though Zanzibar was 16,145 km (10,032 miles). (If you're curious, the furthest you can get from Los Angeles is the French island of Reunion, 18,501 km (11,496 miles) from my parents home address). Incidentally, my dad having grown up in Rochester New York, this is very very close to the furthest land from there in the world he could possibly reach. The exact furthest point is 100km from where we are now. For any other Americans from the east coast who want to go as far from home as possible, Cape Leeuwin in West Australia is it.



Then we returned to the main settlement and dad went for a brief swim at a nearby beach. Then to the ferry landing and left via a 4pm ferry. If you wanted to stay on the island there's plenty of holiday cottages, though i don't know how much they are.

Walked back to our hotel. Either people are very friendly in this area and I'm too cynical, or lots of people are on drugs because once walking to the dock in the morning and twice walking back wild feral looking people greeted us in a friendly forthright manner like they knew us, to which i responded with a somewhat brusque "how's goin" as i steamed past careful not to get drawn into a conversation.

The hotel restaurant was open and we went in there for dinner, which was actually extremely good (traditional pub fare w a bit of an Irish leaning as it was an "Irish pub"). There was an Asian woman who appeared to be on drugs dancing by herself by what looked like an ATM for placing bets on the races on the TVs. Eventually she left but was replaced by several similarly disreputable looking guys hovering around the machine as if it was a warm fireplace in a frozen winter.

aggienaut: (Default)
My parents arrived about a week ago. And after a week around my home village we proceeded this past Monday to Perth.

That was a four hour and fifteen minutes flight, which was an hour late. So after we got the rental car and drove half an hour to our hotel it was 22:00.

We drove around all four sides of the "Wray Hotel" but it all looked dark and locked.

"Uh, dad, Google lists this place as 'permanently closed'"
"What?! I booked on hotels.com and it took my money!"

At this point we were idling in the exit of the hotel's parking lot and a car came up and angrily revved its engine behind us so we drove down the street and pulled over.

It being three hours later here than in Victoria, it was 1am where we'd just come from and i think we were all very tired and not wanting to deal with such shenanigans.

Dad called the listed contact number and a guy with a Chinese accent answered, there was a lot of background noise, i thought it sounded like kids but mom thought it sounded like he was in a bar. He did assure us the hotel was still open and we should go knock on the door of the attached bottle-o (drive through liquor store).

So we proceeded back. There was indeed signage of a bottle o along one side thought it was all dark. We pulled up to the door, which had the metal security roller door pulled down, and there was a door bell, which we rang several times without answer. While we were waiting two cars pulled up behind us. The occupants of one got out and said they were trying to get beer from the bottle-o. I don't know about you but i was finding this really weird. I was wondering if it was a drug dealing location and we were about to get ourselves mugged.

I decided to proceed around the building on foot and see if closer examination revealed anything.

And actually on the far side i found a propped open door with a "guest entrance" sign. Outside a younger couple was sitting on a bench smoking.

Went in and confirmed it appeared to be a currently operational hotel. Stairs led up to one hall with rooms on either side, lights on and everything in normal order. A young man exited a room and i asked him if there was a manager around but he said they went home.

Called my parents and they came up. We looked around and were like, well, we made it in but if we can't check in and get a room key i guess we still need to find somewhere else. Called the phone number one more time not very hopeful, but the guy said the manager was returning for us.

About fifteen minutes later a 30ish woman arrived, actually surprisingly cheerful, said she only lived five minutes away. She gave us room keys and checked us in.

Room was alright for a budget sort of place. Room was nice but had no AC. My parents had a bed and i had a couch with linens provided for it. Bathroom was down the hall; one bathroom for male and female but separate showers and toilet stalls for male and female. As is weirdly often the case only one hook was provided to hang your clothes in the shower stall, and especially it being a mixed facility it doesn't seem appropriate to emerge from the shower in just a towel, so one tries to hang all their things on that one hook and change w out dropping anything. Wasn't a fan of the bathroom situation.

And so we lived happily ever after.

The next day we went to famous Rottnest Island, but that'll be another entry.

June 2025

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