Busselton

Dec. 6th, 2023 10:41 am
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Wednesday, November 29th - this is a week ago now but i believe we left our hotel in Perth, We checked out the Perth Botanical Garden (Kings Park) a bit but felt a spot constrained for time and mom felt unwell. Proceeded to drive down to Busselton, two and a half hours south on a major highway.

Busselton is a beach town that feels like it's mainly geared as a vacation destination. At 33.65 degrees south its rather a latitude twin of our hometown of Mission Viejo California (33.59 north), and indeed felt similar with sunny days of perfect weather in the upper 70s (/20s c).

Our hotel was decent, one story and looked like a cheap motel but the walls were very soundproof and it was fairly decent really. Except leaving anything out that could even remotely be considered food brought about ant freeways very quickly and i think there was literally only one free power socket. We were able to free up another by unplugging the TV but there was only one for the toaster/water-boiler/microwave that had to be rotated between whatever was in use. And none of these was near the heads of the beds, one of my perennial hotel complaints.

As the days approached the date of the Ironman (Sunday) we jokingly referred to the hotel as Olympic Village as it seemed to be entirely full of Ironman participants and their families. Dad made several friends.

We were just less than a mile from the beach, though across a busy road that was always difficult to even get onto for the constant stream of cars. The ocean here is Geographe Bay and i was astounded at how little it had waves, it was lapping at the beach with smaller waves than the local lake did the other day. It's weird because it's hardly an enclosed bay at all.



Dad tried swimming but immediately got stung up by jellyfish. Flies on the beach were an enormous nuisance one had to ceaselessly swat in front of one's face.

We drove to downtown Busselton just a ten minute drive away. A lot of the guiding fences and stages were already set up.

One of the famous things in Busselton is a really really long 1841 meter (over a mile!) "jetty" (pier). The first day we walked out a bit of the ways on it. They were selling fly nets at a store on the jetty for $6.50 ea but i foolishly thought the nuisance flies the other day might have been a one time thing and didn't get one. The next day Dad and i walked all the way to the end (mom feeling unwell took a nap in the car), and dad went swimming from a floating dock at near the end. It's not too deep even out there and he was able to touch the bottom. He reported it was really clear.




Thursday dad checked in to the race and such. Flies were again a huge nuisance. We saw people wearing nets over their faces and someone was selling them among the stuff for sale in the check in area, but for $18 it was just a bit too much. We ate at the Shelter Brewing Company on the waterfront and actually had a delicious pizza. To be honest i haven't generally liked pizza in Australia but this one was delicious.

Friday i wanted to go to Cape Augusta because it's literally as far from America as one can get in Australia, and as far as you can get anywhere in the world from the US East Coast, but that being two hours away i was outvoted in favor of nearer options. So we went to the nearby Cape Naturaliste and went for a walk along the coastal scrub with dramatic views of the ocean. Flies were such a nuisance that everyone on the path acquired a short switch of leafy branch to constantly swish in front of their faces. At the lighthouse store (by the actual lighthouse) we learned they had sold out of the last fly net just ten minutes earlier, such sauce! Also learned there'll flies aren't always a problem, apparently many blew in a week or two earlier and in another two or three weeks it was expected that some beetles will have eaten all the fly larvae and ended the fly plague.

Went to a beautiful nearby white sand beach where we found the beach was closed for an hour because a three meter (ten foot!) "bronzy" "bronze shark had recently been spotted just offshore. I'm kind of amused they just close those beach for an hour, like when a turd is found in a public pool.



In the afternoon we went down into nearby Ngligli cave which was fun, a rather extensive cave with lots of stalagtites and stalagmites. Very keen.



We had noticed a whole bunch of cars that said "No Birds!" on the side, with a yellow or green triangle so i thought maybe it was some government program against some invasive bird. Finally curiosity got the better of us and we looked it up, it's a local car rental agency. Apparently the name is a reference to when it was founded their competitors all employed attractive women ("birds") to entice customers, and they did not, which they alleged cut down their costs. Franky i think that sounds like a kind of behind-the-times somewhat sexist name they should probably change.

On the way back to our hotel finally got fly nets at a gas station (for $5 each!).

Saturday was dad's 73rd birthday, though we didn't really celebrate much, he insisted it wasn't his birthday yet back home (or in Rio where he was born). Other than racking his bike and going on a walk along a trail parallel to the beach we mainly took it easy since the next day was to be his race.

Sunday morning woke up at 3:30am to give dad and two other athletes he'd befriended a ride to the race start (a 30ish londoner living in Malaysia and a very friendly retired (55ish) Indian engineer). The Indian, Bharat, said just a month earlier he had failed to finish the Barcelona half Ironman, described being in tears at the end of the day over the failure and had almost given up but was here to try again. Pulling onto the road at 4am it was a parade of cars headed to the race start and not much else. I returned to the hotel after dropping them off, and went back to sleep.

Around 10 maybe mom and i returned to town amd posted ourselves near the running route. We were able to catch dad both times he came past us (they do two loops) but though we kept an eye out for our other two friends and they must have passed the position we didn't see them.




Also were able to watch dad finish. As he crossed the finish line they announced he was the "oldest male finisher!" We talked to the woman who had been announced as the oldest finisher and she was only 71 so i believe he was in fact the oldest finisher.

He came in second in his age group (70-74), but the guy in first was really good. Our London friend had finished three minutes before him and Bharat finished half an hour later. This was a half Ironman, and Bharat is already planning to do the full Ironman in Hamburg in June. He's certainly ambitious!

We didn't meet or see any evidence of any other American participants. See also as far from the US as you can get!

Monday we headed back to Perth. Now dad was feeling sick, and though i didn't mention it i was feeling pretty achey too. We presumably had both gotten what mom had had, though she'd tried to limit cooty exposure.

Back in Perth mom and i explored the Botanical Garden some more at greater length, while this time dad slept in the car.

Stayed in an Ibis hotel near the airport, which dad declared possibly the most budget hotel he'd stayed in (they didn't even give us a new soap, just the soap the previous occupant had used). And of course no plugs near the beds. And disproportionately expensive like all airport hotels.

Flight from there to here Tuesday (yesterday) went smoothly. Dad felt feverish last night but seems better today, though maybe that's the medicine. I thought i was better yesterday but feel slightly under the weather this morning (and refuse all medicine that merely masks symptoms), and mom, whose 71st birthday it is, has gone back to bed after breakfast, which i suppose means she's not feeling 100% yet either. I told her "it's your birthday you can lay in bed if you want to!"

So we're pretty much taking it easy today. But altogether we decided we had a jolly good trip out west.
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After leaving Hobart on Monday we headed southwest about 45 minutes to our next airbnb, a little cabin in a place on the coast named Flowerpot.

dot on our final destination of Cockle Creek, not Flowerpot

Tuesday we headed south about two hours to the end of the road. This entire drive, including the Monday portion to Flowerpot, is through absolutely beautiful countryside. The road mostly follows the coast, though occasionally cutting across peninsulas. The coast itself is extremely squiggly here and dramatically hilly, and across the water (with cute sailboats upon it) there's inevitably either more squiggles of the same coast or islands. The countryside is bucolic, cute small towns, orchards, artisinal this and that shops, interspersed with eucalypt woodland. Until we got to the very southern end of the road and then it was mostly impenetrably thick forest on either side.

Now this road doesn't go to the southernmost point of Tasmania, it would take days of hiking to get there. In fact if you look at a map of Tasmania about a quarter of the island in the southwest is entirely undeveloped, no roads or anything. I'd love to someday go on a multi day hike through there.



By and by we arrived at the end of the road at Cockle Creek. It seems like as far as you can go from anywhere now but apparently was once a whaling station with 2,000 people. There's a cute whale statue. Cute until you realize the disturbing fact that they used to slaughter whale calves like the one in the sculpture.



We went for a walk a few miles along the coast (an hour out, hour back), the beach sand was fine and white, the water clear and turquoise blue. The shore being lined with thick forest up to the edge it looked live a Caribbean paradise if you didn't know it was quite chilly and ignored that there were no palm trees. Across the water was dramatic silhouettes of mountains to the north and northwest, faint rows of islands to the northeast, and where we came around and could see out to sea to the southeast one could see huge distant breakers crashing on a reef -- i think it's thousands of miles across the Great Southern Ocean from here before there's any land.



Because he's a maniac dad had to go for a swim. If you look closely you can see him splashing along in the above picture. When he came out he declared it felt like 62f, just like back home in California!


You can see the difference between previous picture and this one, at clouds blew over it was constantly changing from sunny and brightly colored to cloud shadowed and cold. I was constantly taking my jacket on and off.

And then we drove back to our Flowerpot. It felt like we spent most of the day driving there and back but the views along the way recall cliche sayings about how it's all about those journey!

The more we travel the more we seem to come up with things to do "next time" -- there was a longer hike leaving from Cockle Creek I'd love to hit up "next time"
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So at 14:00 we arrived at our airbnb in Hobart. It was one unit of this brick row, which is housing constructed in 1847 for shipyard workers. Suitably restored to be nice and comfortable, though the floors were still a spot uneven and it unfortunately smelt strongly of fresh paint. (And the host left us no trashcan at all!?). The location was an old part of town full of these really old houses, now all beautifully restored to make for a very nice part of town (a tour guide later told us horror stories about developers wanting to put parking lots and gas stations in place of historic buildings, fortunately mostly defeated)

Above picture of mom and dad smooching is from later, after dad's race.



The lavender in front of our unit was full of bumblebees! There are no bumblebees on mainland Australia so i was very excited to see these adorable little aerial kittens of the insect world.



Saturday morning the very famous weekly "Salamanca Market" was in full swing on Salamanca Square right at the historic wharf district of Hobart.



There was lots of cool stuff at the market. I really wanted this clock. But not quite $225 of wanting it. Mom bought some insects-in-clear-resin earrings at same booth.





There's a tallship festival afoot at the same wharf area this week. Actually the Melbourne tallship Enterprize that i volunteer on is currently making its way up the coast to here. I could have been sailing on it if it wasn't that my parents are visiting now. Someday I'll join it for that sail.






Dad ran the Tasmania 70.3 Ironman on Sunday. First time it's been put on here. Mom and i volunteered, controlling a pedestrian crossing near the bike transition point. Dad reported the bike portion was the hilliest he's experienced ("there were short hills, long hills, steep hills, and steeper hills"). He came in second in his age group.



On Monday we cleared out of our airbnb and then went to the famous MONA museum of modern art. Unfortunately we had to clear out of our prime parking spot at the airbnb and the only parking anywhere near the ferry departure point was a maximum of 3 hours. Being as the ferry took about forty minutes (including time spent queueing and waiting for it), this left one feeling panicked for time while at the museum. It was fun taking the dedicated museum ferry though. Museum was neat, definitely an immersive experience. I found individual exhibits more often than not obtuse but the overall ambience was the experience i guess, though again the fact that one inevitably feels panicked for time detracted from that. Maybe I'm showing myself as a big prude here but the first gallery was an expressly NSFW one with graphically naked people including what looked like a man being raped by a pitbull (???), and i didn't terribly enjoy it. Because that was the first gallery one is dumped into that was probably the one we saw the most of and then hurried through the rest and i feel like we only saw about a third of everything.

On our return to the car we had a $45 parking fine despite our efforts.

After that we headed south for our next airbnb, where I'm writing this, but that'll be another entry!

It's been beautiful days in the 70s f (20s c), between this trip and last time the weather has been consistently better here in Southern Tasmania than where i live in Victoria.
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My parents arrived Thursday the 26th. I hadn't seen them in three years.



Here's some but not all of the trove of books they brought. A lot of things aren't available on Amazon Australia so i have them shipped to their place in California.



The first Saturday (the 28th) i had some honey to deliver on the Great Ocean Road and it's a delightful drive. We went on a short hike to Sheoak Falls (pictured above) and Swallow Cave Falls. I record this particularly to keep track which waterfalls we have or have not been to.



The next day we drove down the lovely Gillibrand Valley to Triplet Falls. I'd been there before (with two of three triplets!), in my first week or two here actually. I had wanted to drag my parents along to Little Airey Falls which leaves from the same trailhead and i don't think I've been to but we were short on time so we opted for the shorter (an hour?) hike, but didn't regret it as I'd forgotten how lovely it was.



I continued working as usual during the day Monday-Wednesday. Wednesday morning my parents stopped by my work to see the honey business as well as my boss' extremely impressive cacti garden pictured above





I've of course been enjoying mom's cooking. Pictured above what we call a "monster," possibly also known as a "Dutch baby?" Mom tells me i can describe it as "a giant popover."

Also my favorite dish "firecracker pork fusilli," which the picture doesn't do justice for so i won't post but is delicious.



On Thursday we boarded the ferry for Tasmania. We're here now but I'll make that a separate post as i need to wrap this up so we can scurry down to the famous Salamanca Market.
aggienaut: (Numbat)

   My dear parents arrived here on Friday!

A Yarn
Yesterday, Saturday February 15th - We didn't really have a plan other than to go to the historic sheep station just outside of Birregurra in the morning for coffee and a scone, and it turned into a day long adventure (a good one) though we never got our scone.

   "Sheep stations" massive tens-of-thousands-of-acres sheep operations, are an important piece of Australian history, and apparently this one right here, Tarndwarncoort was actually the first one! Founded in 1840, they pioneered the polwarth sheep breed adapted to the local climate. Once 15,000 acres, the core of the operation has been whittled away down to 60, though many of the adjoining properties are also still in the hands of descendants of the original Dennis family. A beautiful grand old bluestone house still sits on this core lot as well as some historic outbuildings. (I didn't get any good pictures really but if you click the link earlier in the paragraph you can see some)

   I had been fortunate that in about my first week in Birregurra town I was invited to a party at "Tarndie." Someone on whose land I have hives had invited me. The party was to celebrate the launch of the refurbished "cider house" as an accomodation. At that time I was introduced to the very nice family who own and run the place, the same family who has lived there for [???] generations since the founding in 1840.

   So on Saturday we popped in there. We found Tom Dennis, 40ish, entertaining some guests who appeared to be eating carrot cake and coffee, on a the table under the leafy veranda of the wool shop.
   "My parents are here from California!" I announced to him
   "Oh these people are from San Diego!" he said.
   Too funny. It turned out to be a woman originally from Chile, her mid-20sish daughter, and the daughter's Australian boyfriend whom she had met while backpacking in Guatamala.
   We went on a little walkabout around the grounds and then were perusing the wool store -- they sell yarn from their own sheep in their little shop, hand dyed locally with natural dyes -- when Tom mentioned the other group was about to go on a tour of a woollen mill, which was just under an hour away and the tour was beginning in an hour! So mom purchased some wool and we dashed out the door without pausing for the planned for coffee-and-scones!



   So we went driving out west through and beyond Colac town, through the rugged "Volcanic rises" area.. out just past the town of Cobden where I was fighting a fire two years ago or so.. and sped past the woollenmill and had to make a turn and come back because it was so small and easy to miss. Basically just a big shed by a house. One car in the parking lot which was of course our friends the Chilean-Australians.
   The Great Ocean Road Woollen Mill is run by this shortish guy and his possibly-European wife (accent.. dutchish?). They have machinery to turn alpaca or sheeps wool into yarn. The guy stressed that he's "not a greeny" but the mill is almost completely self sufficient, generating something like 85% of its electricity from solar and all of its water collected on site, and very little waste going out.
   But yeah so they can do alpaca from start to finish on site. Apparently sheep's wool is naturally greasier than alpaca and needs to be rinsed by people with more advanced and regulation-complaint filtration systems. He was saying that only costs "$5 per kilogram" for the washing "and yet people still send it off to china for cheaper rinsing! And that's probably because there's less environmental regulation there but it all washes down into the same ocean!" (I told you, I think he's definitely a greeny, which in my opinion is a good thing but I think it's kind of pejorative in Australian politics).
   Their machine can handle really small batches so they can do yarn entirely from one of their alpacas at a time. Even though I'm not exactly into knitting it was fun seeing the machines and hearing him explain all the steps involved in taking freshly shorn wool and cleaning it and spinning it into yarn. And mom is a bit into knitting, she had even worked at a yarn store (actually so did I briefly, putting the yarn up on ebay), so she was very interested and had some insightful questions to ask.
   The guy was definitely passionate about ethical production. If I understood him correctly it sounded like he had declined to do business with a customer because they were going to take his painstakingly-ethically-produced yarn and send it to India to be made into garments ("they said they wanted to give their business to the poor people in India but did they pay them Australian wages? no of course not. Hmmmmm!"



Quest for a Scone
   By this time it was around 3:30pm. We asked if there was anywhere good to eat and he suggested the Distillery in the nearby town of Timboon. We headed tehre (about ten minutes), but a sign on the door said they stopped serving food at 2:00. We looked around Timboon town and every eatery was dark and closed up. It looked like people were going into the pub but a sign by their door also said they stopped serving food at 2:00. Welcome to Australia, where you're out of luck if you want to eat between 2-5!

   I knew there was next to nothing between here and Colac on our way home, and really nothing very good in Colac either for that matter, and having not had anything to eat since breakfast I was kind of deliirously hungry. But Port Campbell on the coast was only ten minutes away and knowing it was a tourist hotspot I was sure it must have places open all hours. So we headed down there.
   It had been grey all day but here in Port Campbell it was _cold_ and windy. "This is summer!?" dad kept exclaiming. Now you feel my pain!
   We walked into a cute cafe by the beach but they were only serving tea and scones, the chef had already packed up too many things to make real food. We said we'd be back and went walking down the short main street. Long story short EVERYWHERE had stopped serving food at 2:00. Except a pizza place. None of us were really in the mood for pizza but being as it was the ONLY option we didn't have much choice. It was actually pretty busy, being the only place open and all.
   They only had the basic beers and being a bit of a beer snob I'd rather drink wine than that shit, but I was so delirious with hunger I ordered a souvignon blanc when I meant I souvignon gris. Yes just what I need on a freezing day to go with my pizza, a cold white wine.
   After this we walked back to the cafe to finally have our tea and scones .... only to find it was closed!!



Today, Sunday February 16th
   Today we decided to hike to another of the nearby waterfalls, Beauchamp Falls (locally pronounced as "Bocham Falls" I believe). This involved driving for an hour into the rainforest, where as usual I hummed the jurassic park theme music as we took the tightly winding road that weaves amongst towering ferns. I hadn't been to this waterfall in many years so I wasn't quite sure which one it was from my memory-bank of waterfalls but they're all nice. After driving to seemingly the middle of nowhere we came upon this nice parking lot with a very well maintained trail with a lot of people on it (where did they all come from??). Today the sun actually kept coming out which was nice, I'm not very accustomed to the sun actually shining while I walk in the forest here!
   Round trip hike was 2.4 miles, down on the way in and up on the way out. It was very nice, amongst big leafy ferns and towering "mountain ash" eucylypts. Among the many other people on the walh, of note were two young men doing the whole thing barefoot which I just thought was so Australian.

   On the return drive we stopped at one of the places I supply honey, the Otway NouriShed, to finally get our tea and scones. Well mom had this pastry calleed a "beesting" which was pretty delicious.

   In the afternoon I dragged my parents along to pub trivia at the Moriac Pub (which was quite a drive, forty minutes the OPPOSITE direction from my house from where we were, took us an hour twenty to get there from the trailhead). I was worried they'd die of boredom during the first two rounds, "entertainment" and "sports," where like me they didn't have a clue on a single answer. But as usual we caught up on the remaining rounds. My friend Mick and his girlfriend and mom were there so my parents got to meet them and experience an authentic hanging-out-at-an-Australian-pub experience. At dinner there, was good.


My parents and the waterfall. It doesn't look as big as it is here since you can't tell how far back it is

   And that's days 1 and 2!

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