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(view on google maps)

   Saturday (this past, the 18th), we awoke in Marlo for the penultimate day of our expedition to the far eastern end of Victoria. After probably eating a simple breakfast in our nice little hotel room, we checked out and went down to the shore of the Snowy River, where people had been so frolicksom the night before. It was perhaps cooler now than then but still a comfortable temperature, and dad wanted to go swimming. Mom and I suggested swimming across but he prudently pointed out every now and then a motorboat hoons down the river probably not looking out for swimmers, and the current in the middle is an unknown factor. So he swap upstream for awhile and then came back. While he did so I explored a nearby nature path along the bank, through literal littoral rainforest and vine thickets (I was sorely tempted to just substitute literal for littoral there but people probably would have assumed I just made a dumb mistake). As usual dad declared the swim to be great.

   Then we commenced on our way. The first bit of the journey was parallel to the Snowy River, which was separated from the sea by a big brush covered sandbar for awhile. Then the road turned north and meandered through stately tall trees.



   Once we rejoined the A1 Princes Highway (again I note this is the very highway that goes past my home, if we hadn't taken all these sidequests to see other things we could have done this whole journey on just this one road) and headed east on it, the road mainly took broad swoops through forested mountainous terrain. The trees were huge. This area had badly burned in the beginning of 2020 (remember when we thought the year was starting out badly with half of Victoria on fire and some other natural disasters and that was even before Covid showed up). We also noticed after awhile a suspicious... lack of roadkill. Obviously it's sad to see roadkill, but to see a complete absence in an environment that should have plenty (high speed two lane highway through thick forest) is ominous. It makes us think the animal population of the area has not yet come close to recovering.
   Finally we got off the Princes highway, which continues from the eastern end of Victoria north all the way to Sydney (and if one were to follow it west from my house it takes an equally circuitous route to Adelaide at its other end). About twenty minutes on the smaller road to Mallacoota and... we were there! (about two hours after leaving Marlo)



   "Some believe that the name came from 'malagoutha' a local Ganay Aboriginal term of uncertain meaning." (google result from "what does Mallacoota mean" ?) but there's an interesting either potential explanation or remarkable coincidence -- Mallacoota, generally regarded as a little paradise by many, means, my Iraqi coworker informs me, "paradise" in Arabic. Could be someone who named it knew some Arabic (and hey, isn't Walhalla, where we were earlier, also a sort of paradise in a non-Australian language). Honestly in balance I think it's probably a coincidence but it's still interesting to note.
   Anyway, we discovered Mallacoota to consist of a small core of a town of houses and cafes surrounded by an extensive caravan park surrounding it on three sides and totalling 60-75% of the land area of the "town," and surrounding this a picturesque bay with many little boats moored up, a maze of reedy islands beyond. We were feeling a bit hurried because we still had a four hour drive to where we'd be staying the night. I perhaps had had a bit of "target fixation" getting us here but hey we made it. It was now around 14:00 and we figured we needed to be on the road again by 16:00.
   We looked at the cafes but none of them that were open actually appealed to us greatly. We were keen on the bakery but it turned out to be closed. Mom was suggesting we just have cheese sandwiches again but I was at the end of my rope with gosh darn cheese sandwiches. So we went to get food at what appeared to be the most popular place, a chinese restaurant. While there we observed the clientel was positively geriatric. They hobbled about feebly, barely navigating the step at the front door. We got our bowls of stir fry and took them to a picnic beach by the bay (about from where the above picture was taken), and found the food to be thoroughly thoroughly bland. I reflected back on the clientel and mused that their customer base probably likes it that way.
   Then we went on one of the shorter walks I had identified in the area. We were feeling really pressed for time but I felt like if we didn't go on a walk it would feel to much like we just came here and turned around. The walk was nice though, we heard many bird calls we hadn't heard before and at one point two smallish kangaroos (but bigger than wallabies) bounded across the trail just in front of us. There wasn't actually that much evidence that this area had burned, if it had, but there were a few blackened stumps. The big trees here seem to have survived and the smaller shrubbery thoroughly grown back.



   Then we drove to the bay entrance, where the above picture was taken, and then it was time to get back on the road! This was a four hour drive back across land we'd just covered, but it was all beautiful and interesting so at least as a passenger I didn't mind it. I'd offered to do some of the driving but dad seems content to do all the driving himself, and other than commenting that it was a lot of driving he didn't really complain. We passed a few random signs for walking tracks I wouldn't have known about if I hadn't seen the signs there, and if we were in less of a hurry it might have been nice to check at least one of them out. So for future note they are the "MacKenzie River Rainforest Walk" and "Cabbage Tree Walk"

   As is traditional for family road trips, we had some idle musingful conversations, like the subject of words that are almost the same but not, and whats the difference between them? Like I maintain there's subtle differences between "squish" and "squash," "floofy" and "fluffy" and "puttering" vs "pottering" about. I won't get into all of these (maybe a subject for their own entry?), but as to the last one, I think they both imply kind of doing various little tasks around the house, but while one might be accomplishing things while pottering about, one isn't really accomplishing anything while puttering about. And a special mention and this might literally be just a me thing, but I feel "hover" (hah-ver) and "hover" (huv-er) have subtly different meanings. Helicopters "huver," bumblebees "hahver."

   Anyway the purple line in the map at hte top of this entry is the new area covered headed out West on return from Mallacoota. It was mostly forested hills and low intensity pasture land until bairnsdale (which dad mispronounced as Brains-dale and I'll never be able to say correctly again!), and more thoroughly agricultural land west of there. We arrive in the town of Sale to get groceries and were rather shocked by how empty the town was. Traralgon (pop 26,000) on a Thursday evening had been really happening, Sale (pop 16,000) on a Saturday evening around the same time was like a ghost town. Also like a god damn labyrinth, major roads seeming to dead end. We wanted to go to Coles because we're more familiar with it, but literally couldn't find a way to get to the front entrance of the store and settled instead for a Woolworths we stumbled upon.
   Then we went to get KFC for dinner since we just wanted something quick. Here we had perhaps an error of differing national standards -- I never eat at KFC so I don't know the sizes of things, but my parents felt one piece of chicken for each of them would be sufficient and two for me. We asked for two breasts and two thighs but the bemulleted adolescent who took our order apparently interpreted that as two drum sticks and two breasts for some reason. And when my parents saw the small size of the portions they had gotten themselves they were very sad (I offered one of my two pieces, even though that was also insufficient for my appetite, but they declined). But that comes later because we took the food to the airbnb to eat there.

   From the town of Sale we continued on to our airbnb down on Golden Beach, arriving there just after the sun had set. This bnb, when we had looked at hte listing, had said "sheets aren't included but can be provided for a small fee." We thought that was really odd, who travels with their own bedsheets?? But whats a small fee, $5? $10? So we booked it and sent the host an inquiry about sheets. He had responded with "no worries" and a phraseology which lead my dad to think the host understood we'd need sheets and was agreeing to provide them.. and the fact that the "small fee" was $60 a bed (!!!!!!) WTF! We could probably buy our own sheets for that much! We actually considered doing so. But despite a lot of grumbling we were committed.
   Anyway, arriving at the place we found... NO SHEETS! And also no running water. And the host somehow had 4.83 star average and "super host" status. WTF. We sent him messages politely expressing our alarm and soon he was on the phone -- he hadn't thought we'd actually requested the sheets. He seemed reluctant to admit there were sheets on hand but eventually said they were in the locked garage and if we had a screwdriver we might be able to remove the lock deadbolt ... but that turned out to be removable simply by hand.
   As to the water, the host said tehre'd probably been a power outage earlier in the day and the pump needed to be turned back on. Which required dad to open a hatch on the side of the house and crawl ten feet in the (utter darkness at this point, with flashlight), under the house to figure out the right buttons to push to turn on the pump.
   And it's AFTER all this shenanigans, that we FINALLY sat down to enjoy our dinner, at which point we found ourselves looking at these meagre meagre portions. Fortunately we still had some leftover bland bland chinese food (it was so bland even now we didn't finish it and tossed the rest) and some other leftovers.
   OTHER than all these problems the house was nice, and right on the beach (though the ocean wasn't visible due to the sand ridge running parallel to the beach). Dad did go look at hte ocean and report back to us, mom and I just appreciated the sound of waves crashing from the house. Also mom saw a possum on the fence, which, since it froze when she shined the light on it (playing possum, as it were), we were able to approach closely and have a good look at. This one had a naked tail, I think it was a ring tail possum -- the only other possum here I've had a good look at was "Sancho" in my garage, who had a floofy tail and is, I believe, a brushy tailed possum.


I still think these things are uglier than American opossums

   And then we put the sheets on the beds and went to bed. The end (until tomorrow).

   I still don't know if the host did indeed charge us the $60 or waived it in a desperate attempt not to get the less than stellar review he was clearly headed for. And for that matter I'll have to check with mom if dad did indeed give him less than five stars -- dad can be tooo nice sometimes, and I think while I could have actually forgiven the lack of water as an unforseen circumstance if the host seemed like he'd done everytihng reasonable to ensure a good stay, calling $60 a "small fee" loses my assumption of good faith.

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   Caticus Maximus Rex Julius Quintus Potatoe, AKA "Cato," king of cats, believed to be about 13 years old, has not been seen since mid December. It is believed that he is no longer with us. He of course left no disanimated remains, having, I am sure, achieved apotheosis and ascended whole to the celestial sphere of his peer mythical and legendary beasts.

   The last time I saw him was on December 11th. He seemed at that time as spry and himself as ever.

   And the last photo I took of him, he had decided to trap me by sleeping cutely on my arm:




Frodo the Magpie
   It was this past Friday I was informed of Cato's absence. That afternoon after I got home from work, my friend Tim who lives in my village here, biked over to pick up some beekeeping supplies he'd bought from my work. I was sitting on my front porch reading at the time,as it was a nice sunny summer afternoon. Very shortly after he arrived, he was standing just off the porch talking to me when a magpie swooped down from the roof, passing just in front of him. Magpies are notorious for dive bombing people so as first I thought thats what had happened, but moments later the magpie swooped down from where it had temporarily alighted on the fence down to his feet, and looking up at him cawed insistently like a kitten that wants attention. In fact we noticed it still had a bit of its juvenile downy fluff.
   We kneeled down to its level and found it had absolutely no fear of us, perfectly willingly climbing on our feet, our legs, onto our hands. As it was cawing like a hungry kitten the whole time, we thought it might be hungry, and as the trash cans were just at hand one by one we rolled them away from where they'd been revealing a delicious smorgasbord underneath (if you're into that kind of thing) of slugs, worms and beetles. Our pseudocorvid friend (Australian magpies aren't actually corvids (the crow/raven family) though European ones are!) happily snapped up all the beetles, wasn't interested in the slugs, and tried a worm but evidently didn't find it delicious.
   We sat and played with the magpie for about half an hour. It would let us pat it, even turn it upside down and scritch its belly. I was just thinking I'd have to make it a nest box to stay snug overnight or smoething when it must have heard or seen its parents or something and it abruptly flew off. In the days since then I've been hoping to see him/her again, calling out hopefully to any likely looking magpies I see around my house but no luck.
   I've decided to name him her Frodo, or maybe Froyo (:


This is shortly after we met him








Banshee Cat
   "What's with the black cat?" Trent my housemate had asked me months ago.
   "What black cat?"
   "The one thats sometimes sleeping on the couch on the veranda?"
   "I've never seen it"

   Well this past Saturday (day after hearing about Cato and meeting Froyo) I was sitting in the back yard reading and I heard a cat meowing insistently like it was calling for someone, and a black cat with a floofy tail with just a spot of white on the tip walked around the corner of the garage. I gently called to it and it was a bit startled but didn't completely evacuate the yard. He looked at me very cautiously, and retreated if I tried to approach, but eventually sat down some distance from me for awhile, before wandering off calling again.
   Later in the late afternoon / early evening he came by calling out again. I wondered if he was hungry and opened a can of tuna I had, placed it on the ground and retreated and he eagerly ate it. I couldn't see a collar but his fur is a bit long so it could be under the fur. I realized with an eerie chill that he was walking around calling out exactly like he was looking for someone he couldn't find -- Cato used to walk around calling out like that when he couldn't find me, but it didn't sound quite so mournful and desperate when Cato did it. Neighbor cat Bailey died relatively recently, I think my yard had been Bailey's cat-territory, I whimsically entertained the idea that this cat had been a friend of Bailey's and missed him. Or possibly more plausibly, a neighbor had relatively suddenly moved away just days earlier, perhaps they had been looking after this cat.
   Several times since then the cat has come by calling out it's lamentations. Hence I've name him/her Banshee / Bansheecat. It's all a bit Edgar Allen Poe this cat with its mournful lamentations coming by searching, searching, just after my beloved Cato had gone missing.

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   Ghana and Guinea both require visas. I forget, I mentioned here right I'm going to Ghana and Guinea? The visas require one to have flights booked before one applies, which held up applying until the relatively last minute because figuring out flights was a bit of a Thing, one of the organizations even cancelled the project and then I booked flights and convinced them to uncancel it. Anyway by then it was getting on to less than three weeks to the trip so I didn't want to send my passport to DC for visa stamps. Guinea has a visa on arrival (but you need an "eVisa" approval first which I applied for). Our man in Ghana felt he could arrange a visa on arrival even though it looked like Americans weren't eligible, but you know, this is Africa, rules are flexible.

   And then last Friday, a week before the trip, we had an emergency "zoom meeting" (actually Team Viewer for whatever reason), he didn't think he'd be able to get the visas. So we discussed both the possibility that I could rush to Sydney for an emergency visa at the consulate and/or significantly shortening the projet to account for the potential 15 day processing time if I couldn't get an emergency visa appointment.
   I also left the consulate a voicemail and email immediately after our meeting, though I didn't expect to hear back from them until Monday.

   Monday our man in Ghana is now very confident he can get us visas on arrival. Crisis averted. The consulate emailed me back, saying they could fit me in whenever, but I didn't even respond because I'm sure they're busy they don't need my "nevermind" message.

   Then on Wednesday the consulate called me because they hadn't heard from me. I said oh yeah sorry mate I have a visa arranged for arrival. They said "but they won't let you on the plane without a visa!!" and they were very sure of that.
   At thihs point it was the middle of the night in Ghana / Germany, where the rest of the team are located. I saw there were affordable flights ($350, whereupon last month booking well in advance I think Steph and I had gotten tickets to Melbourne for less than half of that) at that point for the one remaining day (Thursday, yesterday), and I was unsure they'd still be available (from my experience when you find a good flight ticket if you don't immediatelybuy it you never again find one nearly as good). So I took a leap and bought the ticket -- if the rest of the team approved it I'd get reimbursed but if they were like nah we have this sorted I'd presumably just have to eat that cost so it was a financial leap. ...Fortunately when I was finally able to talk to the others they approved the decision.

   So the very next day, Thursday, I was flying to Sydney again. Flight at 6am, so had to be at the airport at 5am, so had to leave my house at 4am, so had to set my alarm for 3am.

   Got there without incident. I'e barely spent any time in Sydney at all. The conference last month I didn't really see any of the city other than the public transit between the airport and the venue. I've been in Sydney for two brief 24 hour or so stints about ten years ago and that's it. So walking around downtown Sydney was a pretty new experience to me and... frankly it seems nicer than Melbourne ::hides from angry Melbournites::. It had broad pedestrian only thoroughfares (Melbourne has maybe one?), grand old buildings, and most of all wasn't freezing.

   Easily found the consulate, which turned out to be a law firm on the 7th floor of a downtown building, with a Ghanaian flag in their lobby. Had been expecting at least the consul-general to be Ghanaian, if not the rest of the staff, but they all looked thoroughly European-Australian. ::shrug:: They were very nice though. Got my visa.

   Then strolled around a bit, took a nap in the botanial gardens. Even though I knew the appointment would only take half an hour, these last minute flights I was able to get had only allowed for arriving first thing in the morning and departing at 5:40pm so I had all day. Flew home without incident.

   This morning double checking my ticket for the airport shuttle I realized I'd accidentally booked it for yesterday! That was frustrating though the least-bad such mistake I could have made. Booked a new airport shuttle ticket since it was too early in the morning to call them and didn't want it to be sold out if I waited. As it happens when I finally arrived at hte airport shuttle place and explained the situation they actually refunded me the cost of the extra ticket which I really hadn't expected, so that was nice.

   Leaving my car at work for the 40 days I'm gone, and a coworker, Thomas, drove me to the shuttle bus stop. Again appreciative of the great support from my boss and coworkers.

   And now I'm sitting at the airport gate, flight boards in ten minutes!

UPDATE: Now in the Dubai Airport and just got the email with the pdf of my visa on arrival. Ahaha last minute much?

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So my post yesterday got one of those automatic livejournal comments saying that it was one of the "top-25 of the most popular entries in LiveJournal!"

At that point, four and a half hours after it was posted, it had 13 views, no likes, and no comments ... so how the heck do they calculate their top 25? Or is the non-cyrillic livejournal community so utterly deserted now that just by showing up you can be in the daily top 25?




I rescued another one of these birds today. It was cute how it tried to fly away (eventually, when it fancied it was dry enough, after having been in my hand 15-20 minutes) but was evidently too honey/water lader and/or had lost a bunch of feathers and was unable to fly, and then other birds tried to attack it (which wasn't so cute), but when I got it in my hand again it was calm. I didn't even need to hold it tightly (or even have a finger over the top of it, it could literally have hopped out of my hand) and it didn't squirm or struggle. I think it's cute when a wild animal seems to trust you. (:


EDIT TO ADD: In a delightful irony, this entry just got posted to [livejournal.com profile] lj_top15_noncyr, it's apparently in the top 15 itself two hours after posting! With no comments, 8 views, but three likes (thats a heckin good view-to-like ratio, I think when I first looked it somehow had three likes and two views though).
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   Once upon when I was relatively wee, I looked out my bedroom window, which opened out over a section of roof sloping away at a relatively slight angle, and out there in the dark silhouetted by the streetlights there was something moving. Something large and furry. A wild animal! A opossum!
   "Mom! Mom! There's a opossum!" I called out as quietly as I could in a projected whisper when she came to the door to say goodnight.
   I don't recall whose idea it was, but we quietly placed a bowl of catfood and a cup of water on the flat area intended for some flower pots just outside the window. We closed the window and I lay down to sleep. Just as I was beginning to drift off I heard a munching noise! Excitedly I slowly raised my head up to look out the window and there was the possum munching catfoot happily a mere foot or two away. He had a white triangular face with dark eyes and round black mickey-mouse-ears. His face looked a bit bulgey as he chewed so I creatively named him "Bulgy-Face Opossum." He'd munch for awhile and then drink some water and then go back to munching, before finally sauntering silently off. Thereafter every evening until we finally moved from that house I left him food and water and would often delight in hearing him munching just outside my window.

   At our new house I left catfood out sporadically but because there was no convenient place outside my bedroom window I had to satisfy myself with putting it outside the door to the backyard downstairs, and that wasn't as satisfying since I couldn't see who was eating it, for all I know it could have been a gosh darn cat eating that cat food!
   Opossums were around though. There was a latticework awning over part of the back patio and in evenings opossums would sometimes walk across it, which they could do very quietly, but with an adorable naivety to the fact that their long naked tail would often hang down and give them away.

   For awhile when I was in high school we actually had a pet opossum mom named Emmaline, but I'll let her write about that (mom, not Emnaline). (It's funny actually how her memory of the events differs from mine in some key respects, most notably in her recollection I was there and in mine I was not!!)

   Later, after I'd gone to college and/or moved away, a funny thing happened. Beloved cat Pelekea "Pele" Cachaça had gone to cat valhalla after dying valiantly in battle with coyotes, but my parents had left her food bowl full in the kitchen. Then they noticed the bowl continued to get emptier every day! There hadnt' really been a normal cat door so much as they had always left the door open into the garage knownig that one of the ground level vents didn't have a screen on it and the cat used that to ingress and egress the house -- so they concluded a neighborhood cat had been coming in at night and eating the catfood in the bowl, and so they closed the door to the garage before going to bed.
   But the catfood continued to disappear from the bowl! Was it the wandering ghost of Pelcat??
   They only discovered the answer to the mystery because they happened to also close the door to their bedroom, which they didn't usually do. Mom woke up at night hearing a scratching on the inside of the door, sleepily thinking to himself that the cat wanted out before realizing there no longer WAS a cat! She grabbed the flashlight we Californians always have near the bed in case of earthquakes, and pointed it at the door. Next time there was a scratching she turned on the flashlight -- there was a possum, caught looking flummoxed at the door!
   The opossum had hidden itself by the time dad was up too and had turned on the lights. He went to the garage and came up with beekeeping gloves to grab the opossum and evict it. Now the stow away opossum had to be searched for, and it was discovered it had actually been living for some time in the back of the walk in closet in the master bedroom, behind a wall of shoes!!! While we had thought whatever was eating the cat food was coming in to eat it and going out again, in actual fact the opossum had probably been snacking on it as a little breakfast before going out for a night of rambling! After certain pranks detailed in mom's entry, dad evicted the opossum into the back yard.
   When I heard this story I felt like that sounded like a perfect living situation that didn't require opossum evicture at all but dad evidently didn't quite share my view.

Kris51 Possum.jpg
A random baby opossum I met sometime in 2015

   When I moved to Australia I found Australian possums to be somewhat different. As dusk set in these creatures could be seen scuttling along the ground near trees or racing up and down the trunks, or more often heard making unearthly screeches. Occasionally one would run across the roof of my first flimsy accomodation sounding like a miniature freight train. They had stubbier faces, bigger round eyes, non-mickey-mouse ears, and fluffy tails. More people seem to think of Australian possums as cute than American opossums, but I personally feel American opossums are much cuter.
   While playing D&D with my friends, because I'm a huge nerd, I would sometimes tell them I was "sneaking silently along the wall like a opossum" and they'd look at eachother and then inform me "Kris, our possums aren't like yours, they're anything but silent."
   Interesting o/possum fact -- in America we're usually accustomed to our things being named after things on other continents and not vice versa, but the Australian possums are named after the American opossum. They are "related" inasmuch as they're both marsupials, but Australian possums are more closely related to kangaroos than to their distant American opossum o-cousins.

   When I moved into my current little house, the very first night I discovered that Australian possums not only screech, they also, far from quietly creeping across fencelines with only their dangling tail to give them away, seemed to like to jump on my roof and gallop around, possibly holding entire wrestling competitions up there. Nearly every night I hear the thump and clatter of enthusiastic possum sports on my roof, which is not nearly as charming as the sound of old Bulgy-Face eating.
   One day I went out into my garage and saw a possum sleeping on a rafter there. I named him Sancho. It was kind of a mystery to me how he was getting in and out since he seemed bigger than any openings I knew about. Now I had a name to complain about when I heard Sancho making a racket at night. "Damn you Sancho!"
   Later one morning I found Sancho had knocked over an empty glass jar in the garage and it had shattered on the floor. When I grumblingly informed Cristina of this, her first response was "oh no, is Sancho okay??"
   One evening in the summer I was up late just finishing extracting some honey, just slowly draining the extracting machine into some buckets so at the time I wasn't moving much or making any noise, when I heard a scrabbling noise. Looking up I saw Sancho actually climbing up the glass window slats and coming through where one was missing. I hadn't thought he'd be able to get through there. As he came through he saw me and stopped. For a minute we silently locked eyes. Finally I said
   "Hi, Sancho."
   And he backed back out the window slats and disappeared into the night. I had the window slat replaced because I don't need him breaking things in my garage, though I felt guilty depriving him of a shelter he was accustomed to using and thought about getting a "possum box" put onto one of my trees or something.


Sancho himself, looking like he got brain freeze from eating some ice cream too fast

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   Yesterday was a nice sunny day (for once), and it being a holiday I was enjoying a nice nap in my lush probably-overdue-for-mowing backyard lawn. As I drifted back to wakefulness I heard the sound of a small animal slowly rustling through the grass nearby. Thinking it might be one of hte large blue-tongue lizards I sometimes see, I carefully raised my head. What I beheld instead was a very large moth, a little longer than my index finger, making its way toward me "on foot" through the grass. The back edge of its wings were very ragged and a yellow jacket appeared to be attacking it.
    I sat up and the moth continued on toward me and then climbed up my torso, up my neck, and onto my ear, where it proceeded to remain for most of the rest of the evening even after I went into the house and attended to various things. I hope it didn't put any eggs in my ear that would be quite rude.

   Asking around, it appears to be a bogong moth, which I'm informed is edible. Australians probably put chicken salt on it, they put chicken salt on everything. I did not eat it.

   At one point it fell off me and fluttered its wings frantically (but didn't appear capable of flying, the fluttering was completely ineffectual), but when I got it in my hand again it immediately calmed down completely.

   Finally when I had to go to bed I put it on the outside table. It walked around as lively as when I'd met it once placed there. In the morning it was gone, I'm gonna assume Sancho the Possum didn't apply chicken salt to it and instead it has flown off to seek its fortune.

aggienaut: (Numbat)

   Just as I pulled into my driveway Friday, my friend Mick pulled up in front of the house. He had had business in nearby Colac. Mick works as a "machine programmer" for a laser etching company. I haven't been to his work but I picture it as some wild sci fi scene with lasers shooting everywhere. I always have very interesting conversations with Mick; soon we were discussing why I can't cut things while holding scissors in my left hand -- I hadn't realized it's actually because of the way the blades are set up, and thought it was just something existential about scissors. He mentioned there's even left handed and right handed tin-snips, and that the left handed ones are always green, to which I objected, that the left should be red and the right should be green, as the running lights on a ship are.
   Then we moved on to the symbols I was using on my beehives. If they have the highly contagious and deadly-to-bees disease of foulbrood, I mark them with unmistakable red Xs made with red duct tape. After 75% of the hives I got from this one beekeeper came down with foulbrood I automatically places a quarantine on those hives of that batch which didn't even have foulbrood symptoms, and marked them with a red slash of tape, ie half the X. It's interesting to note that a red cross and a red X look VERY similar, but I try to make sure my Xs don't meet at right angles. Once a hive has been infected with foulbrood, one must put the bees down immediately :( , and then either burn the equipment or you can send it to get irradiated at a commercial sterilization facility. Since there's a general ban on burning things outdoors here throughout the summer, and I had a lot of affected equipment, I've decided to take it down to the sterilization center east of Melbourne. I picked up the first batch of sterilized hives on Thursday, now how to mark them so they don't get confused with nonsterile hives?? I googled around for insternational standardized symbols for sterilized, you'd think there'd be one, but other than a circle with "STERILIZED" in it, there didn't seem to be one. So I got some green duct tape and slapped an = sign on each hive -- I figure that's as opposite of the red X as I can get.

   While Mick and I were chatting on my back porch, my dear friend Koriander called me (via facebook) from Washington state, where it was 2am and she couldn't sleep. We put her on speakerphone and for the next three hours she was part of our conversation, it was kind of fun having a long rambling group international conversation. When I sent Koriander the picture of the hives marked with the symbols, the sterile ones on the left and the nonsymptomatic quarantine ones on the right, Kori wrinkled her nose and said "that's alright but... the red ones should be on the left."



   I had been vacillating wildly all week about whether or not I'd go on this camping trip with the Invertebrate Group five hours drive from here. On Friday I got so far as opening an email to apologize to the organizer that I wouldn't be able to make it after all ... and it was at that moment that I decided I would go. To shorten the journey just a bit I crashed at Mick's place that night, since he's about an hour in the right direction. I'll spare you the overwrought travelogging on this occasion since I can only talk about rolling eucalyptus covered hills so many times (theory: writing every day will help you avoid cliches because the cliches will become your own cliches), but the last hour was winding up a very pretty lightly forested valley. And very excitingly, a goanna --a lizard nearly two meters long-- (possibly a lace monitor) darted across the road. I had seen goannas every day when I used to live in subtropical Queensland up north, but hadn't seen any down here in cold Victoria.
   Since the itinerary I'd been sent for this trip noted they'd come back to camp at lunch on Saturday, I'd timed my trip accordingly, leaving Geelong just after 7am and arriving at 12:46. The campground was a nice quiet place by a river in the forest. There was no sign of anyone, and no reception of any kind. I pitched my tent in a nice grassy spot under the trees, idled about a bit till 1:16 but still no sign of anyone. Consulting the itinerary, they were going to walk along the river before and after lunch, so I set off up the river.
   No sign of anyone but it was pleasant. It was maybe 80f, sunny but with a nice breeze and I was wading along upriver since there weren't really trails on the banks. Returned to camp around 6pm to find the group sitting around a table under the awning of an RV, listening to classical music and eating cheese on crackers and wnie. They had flipped the itinerary and had driven for the day to a nearby location they had been going to visit the following day, due to weather considerations. I had been feeling annoyed, as one might imagine, having driven five hours to join a group that hadn't been where they said they'd be, but they said they had waited in the morning and I realized I was probably entirely at fault myself since I never told them I w as planning on catching up at lunch not morning. The members of the invertebrate group turned out to be a bit on the older side, when I went out with them the next day we had to restrict ourselves to relatively even tracks. I greatly enjoyed talking to them though, and it was nice to be able to say things like "when you say 'European Wasps' you mean Vespula germanica I believe?" without feeling like the colossal blow-hard I'd ordinarily feel like for dropping scientific names into a conversation. Because common names often vary between countries I find in Africa it's often only by resorting to the binomials that we can be sure we're talking about the same plant though.

   I haven't had a lot of campfires while camping in Australia because I'm never sure if it's allowed. I would have thought it wasn't but a ranger had happened by and said it was, so that evening I had myself a little campfire by my tent, with a glorious panoply of stars visible in the gaps in the trees overhead. When I put the fire out and turned my flashlight on to my tent, there was ... what I can only imagine was a fox but I swear it was bigger than a fox, its tail was longer and less bushy. It moved like a fox though, darting away a bit, turning to look at me with it's eyes sparkling in the light, then darting further away. Maybe it was the Tasmanian tiger ;)



Yesterday, Sunday, March 18th - First I led the group to see the colony on the underside of a nearby bridge wihch I had first taken for bees, but were in fact wasps. I think they were Ropalidia revolutionalis as that's the only I'm seeing on a list of Australian wasps that matches their mostly dark brown appearance. With the group we examined many little beetles and other bugs but I found I definitely am mostly interested in wasps and bees. We found some clusters of "green and gold gnomia bees" roosting on some plants (they look kind of like honeybees, indeed one of the volunteers said she'd sent a picture to an entomologist who, granted, wasn't very interested in bees, and he'd said they were honeybees). Also a spider wasp trying to haul its hapless prey, a spider, back to its burrow.

   The weather was overcast, on and off lightly sprinkling, temperature in the mid 70s, it actually felt perfect. During the lunch hour during which we were back at the camp I enjoyed just sitting in my campsite reading, thinking about just how serene this place in the forest was.

   Ducked out around 2:30, though the rest of the group will be there through today. Drive back home was uneventful. On both the way in and the way out I was listening to Paul Theroux's semiautobiographical book My Other Life. I love his writing, which includes several book length travelogues, but his travelogues are so much more than travelogues, but philosophical journeys. His writing always inspires me to try my utmost to write as best I can.



   I went straight back to Mick's actually, since we had made plans to play D&D. I've never played D&D before, though I like to make D&D references, and I've been saying I was D&D curious for awhile. I think the rest of my friends were similarly interested and inexperienced at it. We'd been meaning to get together to do it for awhile, and they'd finally done so on some recent occasion when I was out of town. So this was the first time I was able to actually catch up with them. I played a criminal halfling (hobbit?) which I named Dillweed Tosscobble, and was disappointed to find my friends had all given themselves boring names. During the evening I slaughtered two wolves and a goblin. I'm looking forward to playing more so that maybe I'll have some ideas to write a sequel to the D&D entry I wrote awhile ago that I'm quite pleased with (set in our contemporary time, as envisioned by people in the distant future). I also have an idea for a story where the protagonist is a naturalist in the style of the great 19th century expeditionists, and journeys around a D&D style world studying and writing about the specific ecological attributes of the fantastic beasts of the D&D universe. Explore ideas like how does a sphinx fit into it's ecosystem? A cockatrice? What's the natural balance between roving bands of orcs and elves?


Next Adventure: I've signed up for night shift Tuesday night volunteering on the continuing wildfires about an hour West of here. I think I'll start work early tomorrow, sleep till the shift starts, and then just survive as much of Wednesday at work as I can.

aggienaut: (Numbat)

Ten days later / ie this past weekend: Saturday, March 10th, middle of nowhere - "Well this is awkward" says the man on the phone, "you see, we didn't know you were coming, we are already out in the field."
   I've already been driving two hours to get there. There's an awkward pause. "Well, I guess you could come to the camp site and we'll be back at 4."
   "...okay. I guess I'll do that." I say. I happen to be passing through a small town so I pull off the road to regroup myself, and end up reading an interesting plaque about migratory eels.

   Just prior to my parents visit I had discovered there's a really cool webpage run by the parks department listing volunteer opportunities. One can pull weeds or help maintain trails if one really wants to, but what really caught my attention was the "environmental monitoring, survey and research" section. They needed volunteers to help monitor wildlife on the mud islands in Prince Phillip Bay, volunteers would be working off a catamaran! Unfortunately that event fell while I was in Tasmania. There was another one surveying swamp skinks on the Mornington Peninsula (the other side of the bay from me) but I didn't fancy driving the long way around or paying the $125 round trip to take the car -- it was really frustrating though because its just $12 to take the ferry across w out a car and 17 km to the survey site but I couldn't get there!

   This weekend there was another catamaran trip on Monday (which was Australian labor day), which I inquired if anyone could provide me a ride from the ferry terminal, was told no, and by the time a day later I went to tell him fuck it I'll drive around, all the spots had filled. So I signed up for a "bird and arboreal animal survey" about 2.5 hours north of me. Then the boating project coordinator told me two people dropped out, and thus I resolved to make a crazy weekend of it and do both even though they're in practically opposite directions!

I. Over Hill and Vale, through Hall and Back, to Jallukar!
   And thus Saturday morning I found myself headed west, a direction from home I've hardly explored. Beyond the nearby boring country town of Colac the land was scrubby where not cleared for cattle, and gradually a larger percentage was just left as scrub. Volcanic rocks could be seen laying about and occasional extinct volcanoes abruptly rose from the otherwise relatively flat countryside. A fire had been raging for three or four days somewhere just half an hour west of Colac, though I didn't see any sign of it. I'd been feeling guilty because every day and evening I was getting the fire brigade texts asking for people to sign up for night shift or day shift the next day, but I have, you know, work to do. And then this weekend I had these things I had signed up for. Though it turns out that though I signed up on the webpage and got the confirmation email, the group running this project, the Field Naturalist Club of Victoria, is new to the system and hadn't noticed I signed up. So when I called half an hour from the listed start time of noon, they had long since headed out into the bush. Later I would find out they have their own events calendar that they keep much better updated.

   I decided I might as well get lunch, but the two cafes in this little townlet of Lake Buloc appeared to have nothing at all that wasn't deep fried crap, and I'm not a health nut but c'mon people. Then looking at a map I determined it would only be a little bit longer to drive the length of the famous Grampians National Park to get to my destination instead of the direct route I was on.

   So I headed west another half hour to the town of Dunkeld which was much cuter (actual tree lined streets) and had an actual decent cafe where I got lunch. Then headed up north in the national park. From the road I couldn't actually see much of the dramatic ridges and pinnacles the park is famous for, but it was pleasant to be surrounded by thick forest at least. Stopped in at the town of Halls Gap at hte north of the park, which is the major tourism hub in the park. It was a bit of a madhouse there of tourists, it being a three day weekend. I had to park about half a kilometer from the information center. By now I only fancied I had time for about a forty minute hike before I needed to proceed to my rendezvous with naturalist club, so I selected a forty minute hike leaving from Halls Gap to some shaded rock pools called the "Venus Baths." Sounded lovely hey.
   Trail led up a forested gully from the main camp at Halls Gap, passed many families. Arriving at the rock pools I found them totally full of families and young children and turned on my heel. Shoulda known really. But at least I've done a Grampians hike now and can cross that one off the list for the future.

   From here it was just about twenty minutes drive to the caravan park at Lake Fyan that the naturalist club was operating out of this weekend. $89 for a tent site?? Isn't it supposed to be more like $5 to $15?? Set up my tent -- I finally bought a tent! Randomly ran into a friend just outside the camping store and he gave me flak for "why don't you just use a swag??" but as I mentioned earlier, I find the traditional Australian swag just ridiculous, considering it barely fits in my car while my new tent fits in a backpack. After I set up my tent I called the Field Naturalist guy and he came over, greeting me with "Dr Livingstone, I presume?" which I was greatly amused by.



II. Jallukar Forest By Night and Day
   For that evening's adventures there were five of us, four older men and one younger woman, we divided into two cars and headed into the nearby Jallukar Conservation Reserve. We waited until it was dark and then, in our car-groups of two or three, walked several designated 500 meter "transects" -- just pre-identified sections of the dirt road. We were armed with red-filtered flashlights and the game plan was to shine them in the trees as we walked and record everything we saw. Walking along illuminating the trees with the strong red flashlights we'd been provided with was fun. Red light doesn't ruin your night vision, and apparently doesn't bother the animals as much as white light would. Presently I caught two red eyes flash reflectively back at me from high up in a tree
   "Guys, guys! I think I got something!" I said to the other two. After some examination, "yep, that's a brush tail possum" the more experienced guy declared, "good job!"
   Altogether we saw one more brush tailed possum (also my find!), a tawny frogmouth owl, and "a roosting cockatoo." We heard a nightjar calling, I'm not sure if that was counted, but I enjoyed being with these experienced naturalists who were able to teach me things like what a nightjar call sounds like.

   That night some nearby guys were absolutely blasting music until well past 2am, it was awful. I can sleep through a lot of background noise but I was hearing pop country music louder than I'd be confortable with if I was in the same room with it. Talking about it with the others from the naturalist group the next day they were saying teh same thing had happened Friday night and at least one of them had complained to the management numerous times but apparently the caravan park management doesn't actually enforce its noise curfew!


Sunday, March 11th, Jallukar Forest - In the morning we returned to the same transects, this time walking them with binoculars and inventorying birds. I was pretty useless at this but again it was fun to learn about the different birds from the more experienced guys ... though I'm not sure I've retained much to report. We saw a hooded shrike! And learned to differentiate between the calls of two different kinds of raven.
   After we finished that, the two groups came together and as one big group we checked nesting boxes which had been put up in trees to be occupied by arboreal animals and/or birds. We checked probably around 25 and not one of them was occupied. But I think there were a lot of tree hollows available so it might have more to do with other housing options than a lack of animals. I think what I missed before I arrived was putting up of motion cameras, which they then collected after I left. But at this point when they broke for lunch I departed to make my way to my next destination


III. Journey to Tooradin, Pitching A Tent in the Swamp
   First, having gotten a nagging feeling from the way Kermit (the car) was behaving on the previous day's drive, I checked the oil. It had only been three driving-weeks (ie not counting the week I was in Tasmania) since the oil had been topped up but I have learned how Kerm goes through oil. Sure enough, It was out! And here I was in the middle of nowhere, on a Sunday! The pep-boys clone (Bursan) I usually go to isn't open on Sundays so I just had to hope to find oil SOMEWHERE! Resolved to drive to the town of Ballarat, 80 miles away, which would be the shortest route home anyway, and if I didn't find oil by then to cancel the rest of my weekend plans and hope I could get home and lay low till places opened.
   Forty minutes along country roads to the town of Ararat, sweating all the way and overanalyzing ever percieved engine noise or difference in handling. In all probability I had driven hours the day before in a similarly oil-less condition (at least hte dip-stick wasn't bone dry, it was still a bit oil-moist in there?). I had googled "auto parts stores Ararat" and went into a big store on mainstreet that seemed to have everything from camping supplies to kitchen pots, and I wasn't sure it would have engine oil but I asked the clueless looking long-blond-haired employee-boy and .. actually come to think of it it was while he was looking for someone else to ask I found the oil myself. The exact stuff I needed!

   After topping up, the car acted even more strangely! Car people is this a thing? The engine was hot and the oil cool which is maybe an unusual circumstance for it? It was up near the top of its revs just going 80 and the speed limit was 100, so I limped along letting people pass me continuously and praying my engine wasn't permanently borked.

   Made it to Ballarat, hoping that maybe letting the engine digest its new oil over lunch would sort it all out. Also I had noticed whilst driving through Ballarat on an earlier trip an African restaurant, which I'd been dying to visit. So I popped in, it turned out to be an Ethiopian place, and I quickly got to chatting with the very friendly owner about Ethiopia. He really feels the government is too dominated by people from the Tigray region (I've heard this a lot) and too repressive. The injera wasn't sour like it is in Ethiopia, but, you know, you've got to cook to local tastes. The owner talked about how local people were extremely skeptical at first but young people were more willing to try it and then spread the word of mouth. Altogether I really enjoyed both the food and the chat with the very friendly owner. I'll definitely be coming back next time I'm in the area.

   Back on the road again, the car seemed quite well behaved!! Had to go right through the middle of Melbourne. I hate how I have to drive right through the city center to get to the east side. Like one can't even take a freeway the whole way, the freeway ends and one has signals and so many different turns one has to pay careful attention to the GPS. Its really obnoxious. Fortunately there was no traffic on Sunday, but today (Thursday) I had to go to East Melbourne and back for work and my GPS decided to send me on a wild goose chase in downtown after somehow thinking I wanted to go to some random place just south of the CBD, and then I was stuck in rush hour traffic, but I digress.

   Proceeded to the town of Tooradin, previously mentioned here, a little town on the north end of West Port Bay, the bay east of the bay Melbourne is on. I had hoped to find camping near there, on numerous previous adventures I'd been able to find camping in campgrounds near where I found myself, on the fly. But there appeared to be no actual campgrounds anywhere near Tooradin, and none of the caravan parks seemed to have anyone answering phones or door knocks on a Sunday afternoon. As the sun sank toward the horizon I stood by the river in Tooradin pondering what I'd do for the night.

   There's an observation tower in the Koo Wee Rup Swamp just east of Tooradin. I've of course stopped there before to see the view from the top. That observation tower has always had a special place in my heart for some reason, and on this occasion, I recalled that I believe it had a broad lawn around its base! I proceeded there (fifteen minutes from Tooradin, the next morning's setting out point) and sure enough it did! And in fact it looked like there was evena place behind some trees I could kind of hide the tent. I'm sure you're not exactly meant to pitch a tent there but then again they had neglected to put up a "no camping" sign, and, you know, "that which is not forbidden is allowed." Nevertheless I decided to wait till after dark to pitch my tent. I watched the sun set from the top of the tower, but reckoned it would still be an hour till it was really dark, so I drove to Koo Wee Rup town (I didn't even know there was such a place) about ten minutes up the road, had a beer at their very just-like-every-other-pub pub (they're into well lit bland pubs with angular square tables, nothing with any personality on the walls. One full wall is greyhound races at all times it seems), and returned to pitch my tent in the dark (picture from the morning)



IV. Mudflats and Seagrass!
Monday, March 12th, West Port Bay -
about thirty of us gathered at the boat dock. Two rangers, one (Mark) who did most of the talking and seemed very comfortably playing a sort of master of ceremonies, the second one was a smallish man with an interesting french-australian accent. This second one is actually the head ranger of the West Port Bay area and while he wasn't shy per se he seemed more interested in wandering off to look at flora or fauna than talking to the crowd. Two other guys from another department in Parks Victoria, two young women both from the Parks Dept's communications department, and volunteers in twos and threes across the range of ages. Also a large number of people from a snorkelling club. We went around making brief introductions in the beginning while the boat came around.
   While this event was originally supposed to take place on the allegedly beautiful sailing catamaran the Pelican, at the last minute they had realized the Pelican's paperwork wasn't in order for this event, and Mark had scrambled to secure this rather unimpressive looking barge of motor-catamaran, however it did the trick. It took about forty minutes to get out to French Island in the middle of the bay. I learned that much of the bay is so shallow that at low tide most of he back end is mud flats, and even catamarans such as this must stick to the winding channels. During this time Mark kept pretty much a continuous presentation going about the purpose of this project, the seagrass, invasive seagrasses, measures they're taking to eliminate the bad (non-native) and favor the good (native) seagrass, as well as other topics of less immediate importance to this project like invasive starfish. Altogether it reminded me of the sort of Marine Biology programmes I've seen other maritime organizations I've worked with provide for kids, but this was oriented for interested adults and was thus scaled way up in depth and detail. It was really interesting!!!
   The original plan had called for wetsuits and snorkel gear. Which I didn't have but I bought a mast and snorkel and fins earlier in the week. As we approached our destination area and everyone was intructed to don their wetsuits I eyed the cold grey water and the dreary sky with much apprehension. I soon decided I did NOT fancy going in without a wetsuit, probably not even if I had had one. I crossed my fingers nad urgently hoped I wasn't the only one who didn't go in, picturing the judging disappointed looks of the rangers as they reminded me that this wasn't just a cruise and I was expected to volunteer.
   Fortunately at what felt like the last minute, they announced that the weather was actually too poor for snorkeling about so instead we'd go to a small island nearby and wade about around it.

   To get to the island we had to climb off the front of the boat into waist deep water and carry whatever we were taking with us to shore. Once there on this rocky little island covered with bush-like small mangroves, our first task was explained to us: in groups of four we'd take half meter square quadrants and place them in the shallows and fill out a form describing what percentage of the space inside the quadrant was made up of one of various types of seagrass, or "macroalgae," and what percentage o the seagrass had phytoalgae (I think it was called?) covering it. There was a lot of algae! I was in a group with a couple and a kind of know-it-all woman who soon left our group.

   Then we broke for lunch, and as the sun was starting to peek out, the french ranger offered to take those who were really keen on snorkeling on a snork-about. Whilst eating I noted this young lady was answering questions from curious other volunteers about her native Ecuador, and decided I had to go be part of this conversation. Had a good chat with her for the rest of lunch. Turns out that she, Michelle, has a degree in conservation engineering, but was disturbed to find that most employment that led to was just environmental surveys for oil companies who were going to destroy the area regardless. After lunch the rangers explained our next mission, we were to seek and destroy all oysters! The North Pacific Oyster is an extremely overabundant non-native pest in the area and "you can eat them!" the rangers kept mentioning, "...really you can eat them if you'd like." They handed out hammers, and as I stood there with hammer in hand, Michelle, looked to me with her large brown eyes, and said, "let's go!" And so she and I were off on the mud flats for a smashin good time ... smashin oysters. We annihilated eight. The group altogether destroyed just over 200.

   When it came time to go we once again had to wade out to the boat. I noted, as one might expect, that while on the way out we were a bunch of little groups of two or three, by the return trip everyone was friends.

   Drove home from there, two and a half hours, once again through the heart of Melbourne. Still thinking my car might die at any moment and overscrutinizing any perceived engine noise and performance variations. But I made it home without incident! The end!!!



Right now I'm torn. It's Thursday, I'd really like to go on a camping excursion with the Invertebrate Group of the Field Naturalist Club that is planned for this weekend, but its fully five hours drive away and that's a faaair bit of a long way to go for a weekend. :-/

aggienaut: (Numbat)

Saturday, February 24th, 2018 - We awoke to the first rainy day of our whole week in Tasmania. People say "it's cold!" down in Tasmania and allege the weather is much worse, but from my brief experience, we had a solid week of lovely sunny days in Tasmania whereas at home in Victoria I don't think we've had more than three days of sunny weather in a row all year, and even three in a row has happened maybe once or twice. I asked friends back home if they were getting the same week of nice weather and they said they were not, so there you have it, weather in Tasmania is great, case closed!

   We'd spent the night at an airbnb in a rural area on the peninsula between Hobart and Port Arthur, in this case a woman was airbnbing out a self contained section of her house. She was very nice. Mom wanted to visit with the farm animals and chooks (chickens) said to be on the property but in the pouring rain it wasn't very appealing to go mucking about. Well for some of us. For my dad, there was one thing he wanted to do: go swim in the ocean!!
   Following directions from our kindly host, we proceeded to nearby Pipe Clay Lagoon, which as were driving up beside it appeared to at the time consist of mud flats and/or a centimeter of water with happy water birds walking around looking for tasty snacks. What was really kind of neat though was on the sand bar section between the lagoon and the sea, there was literally no road but one drove on the sand (on the lagoon side) and there were houses on the sand bar whose driveways just went into the sand. Our host had mentioned that at high tides the water is up to the bottom of the driveways. Guess one has to plan one's comings and goings!
   Because it was still raining, when we parked and walked to the sea-side there was no one at all on the beach there. Dad declared the water to be (62? 65f?), which is actually similar to the ocean water temperature in California, in which he swims alll the tiime. So he went in and soon he was just a distant splish splashing arm. While he did this mom and I strolled up the beach looking for keen shells. There was quite a large amount of nice shells on the beach. Also the boiler of a ship that ran aground there in the 20s or thirties I believe (there was an informational plaque but I don't actually recall the date).

   By and by dad returned, invigorated and happy. He had swam in the ocean at the southernmost point any of us has ever been (save for Port Arthur the day before which looks like it has a few kilometers southing on this place but hey thats quibbling)! Now he was feeling celebratory so we decided to look for a nice place for breakfast. We had noticed on the maps a canal that appeared to not quite cut through a narrow neck in the peninsula and decided to investigate!! While so doing we found a nice restaurant overlooking the canal and settled in for a rather fancy brunch (at first I mom and I were thinking it looked a bit fancier than our usual lunch budget, but like I said, dad was feeling very festive - "it's our last day in Tasmania!"). While there we learned the canal had been built (in the 20s? 30s? I'm just gonna go ahead and assume every date I can't remember falls in that area) after intense lobbying by local farmers who wanted to I guess shorten the shipping route to bring their products to market in Hobart by boat (though looking at the map it really doesn't look that far around). After building the canal at a fair expense it was only briefly operational before storms silted up the seaward end of it, and constantly dredging this build-up proved unfeasible. So today it's just a canal to nowhere, with the seaward end completely built-over.



   Our plan for this morning WAS to go to the famous Salamanca Market, which everyone was saying we needed to go to, but being as it was totally pouring we decided to maybe take a rain check on the market (I can picture [livejournal.com profile] tassie_gal throwing up her arms in utter consternation at us here ::hides::).

   Instead we decided to hit an animal sanctuary on our way back north. We headed north, off the peninsula, and skirted along the east side of the Derwent estuary, with Hobart town across the way (though a fair bit of it had overgrown onto this side as well). About half an hour north of the city we came to the Bonorong Wildlife Sanctuary, here, conveniently, the rain had stopped and the weather was once again rather pleasant. We caught a guided tour by an elderly guide who mom (and dad agreed I believe) swore was the spitting image of my dad's mom, whom I barely knew, so I tried to get a good look. Here I suppose I really ought to describe said guide but I'm not sure how. She was a bit wirey, with white hair that looked like it had once been red, irish features.
   The sanctuary had the obligatory hundred or more tame kangaroos one can feed, lounging around living the good life, but we steamed right past these boring dime a dozen animals to see the famous Tasmanian devils. It turns out, you know, they look nothing like the cartoon character at all. They look kind of like large (small dog sized) stocky rats. And apparently are prone to tumors which makes them, um, really a bit ugly most of the time. I couldn't really get a good picture of one, they're very restless and I kept getting pictures of their back or otherwise ruined pictures, this is the best I got. They're mainly scavangers and opportunist eaters of anything they can get their hands on, and I realized they share their belligerent temperament with a lot of other animals that also fill that niche such as hyenas, and jackals; I guess it comes with the territory. Some of the enclosures had a chew toy on a bungee as an "animal enrichment item" to simulate the tug of war over a piece of meat they might regularly get in with their compatriots in the wild.
   When my grandmother's lookalike moved on to the koalas we peeled away, admired the cute echidna a bit (sign there said that echidnas are actually very smart with an unusually large brain for their size), fed some kangaroos (look at this cute kangaroo family, and note the tail and leg of the joey hiding in his mother's pouch here), managed not to accidentally feed the kookaburra, and were all a bit mind-bizorgled to learn from the sign that one cockatoo they had was over a hundred years old!! I knew some parrots live a really long time, such as the alleged* parrot of Winston Churchill which is still alive at 119 years old, but now I'm looking around at the huge flock of cockatoos that live around my house and thinking jesus any of these could be a hundred years old!

* while fact checking this claim I was sadly disillusioned to learn that the Churchill estate firmly maintains he owned no such parrot.



   From here we headed right across the island to return to the ferry terminal at Devonport. The land through the middle was idyllic rolling farm land. I tried to pull up some Beatles songs on youtube since my memory of childhood roadtrips with my parents were always accompanied by Beatles music (my dad is a big fan). The Beatles estate must be good at keeping the music off the freetube though because all I could find were crummy live recordings.
   I think we all thought there'd be some kind of cafe or something available at the ferry terminal, but once we checked in at around six and were let in to the car corral, there was no cafe other than someone selling coffee out of the back of a not-even-van-sized vehicle, and a very utilitarian toilet block, and we couldn't leave the corral area! Since the boat wasn't leaving till (9?) we realized we probably shouldn't have checked in so early, needlessly condemning ourselves to a few hours incarceration in literally a parking lot on a nice Tasmanian afternoon.

   This time we had a "family cabin" to ourselves, which was basically the exact same four bunk room but no weirdo strangers. Trip back was quite uneventful. Both my parents got up at 5 to witness the crossing of "the rip" into Prince Phillip Bay but having caught it on the way out I was happy to keep sleeping. Rousted up at 7:15 for an 8ish arrival. Had breakfast in one of Melbourne's cute laneways. Earlier planning had played with the idea of seeing some of Melbourne while we were there but I think we all agreed we were ready to go home, and proceeded back to my place.
   But not without stopping at another wildlife sanctuary!! On the northern outskirts of Geelong there is the Serendip Sanctuary! Whereas the other one had been pay entry and swarming with staff, Serendip is nice and quiet -- it's well maintained but I've never seen any staff, and it's free entry. Billie used to live just near it and we went a few times, it's a nice peaceful place to stroll and look at the animals. We saw emu and brolgas as well as wallabies and more kangaroos. They have some nice wetland areas where the viewing area is accessed through an entirely enclosed walkway and viewing is done thorugh slits in the wall, so the birds don't get started, and dozens of different kinds of birds can be seen. My mom in particular is a bit fond of birding so she enjoyed seeing so many different species all in one place. In addition to the open wetlands (birds there are all just naturally visiting of their own volition), there were also several large aviaries with dry land and scrub birds. Altogether a fun place for a peaceful stroll and/or seeing some birds. As always when I visit we only saw a handful of other people.

   And the next day, Monday, I had work! And my parents left on Wednesday! The End! Altogether a lovely visit and I think we're all very much looking forward to next time already.


   Total journey through Tasmania:

aggienaut: (Numbat)

Tuesday, February 20th, Dismal Swamp, the Tarkine Wilderness - "Wait, which way is it?" asks dad, looking from the small map to the junction in the boardwalk "this junction isn't even on here!" I look at the map myself and as far as I can tell this junction is indeed not on the map. We are lost literally and figuratively deep in the dismal swamp!



   The day at begun at our little airbnb bungalow outside of Stanley. We had only been working up the plan for this day since yesterday and as soon as I saw "dismal swamp" on the map I knew we had to go there. I didn't really care what was or wasn't there, just, why WOULDN'T one want to visit a place called "dismal swamp??"
   The weather was sunny, with a cool breeze, which I realized with alarm reminded me of Autumn! If one accounts for the flipped year, February does equal August, so indeed the summer is coming to an end! Mom was eyeing some wild birds out the window "those look like chickens, are they chickens??" they looked just enough not like chickens to make one wonder. Mom got out the bird book and determined that they were in fact some kind of native bush-chicken, I believe?

   Our first destination was a coffee shop and bakery in the nearby town of Smithton (once again small, built around an estuary, with a busy little mainstreet), where the woman behind the counter was remarkably friendly. Smithton also had a small museum, which was closed, but we could see through the window the (plastic casts of, presumably) bones of a prehistoric giant wombat (a diprotodon I believe?) , and read the informational sign about it. Also, I think it was in the dismal swamp we learned about it actually, but while I'm on a paragraph about ancient megafauna: you've undoubtedly heard of the Tasmanian devil, you may (should) have heard of the Tasmanian tiger, but did you know there was also a Tasmanian lion (Which for some reason has a separate wikipedia entry under the name thylacoleo! The Tasmanian Lion is believed to have been extincted (extunck?) by the arrival of aboriginals around 60,000 years ago. The last confirmed living Tasmanian Tiger of course sadly died in a zoo in 1933 due to neglectfully being locked out of it's shelter during extreme weather ):< ...and I just learned just this moment that the closest living relative of the Tasmanian Tiger is the NUMBAT, which is the adorable little critter in my default icon!

   Next stop, Dismal Swamp!! --Or, as they're making a vague effort to rebrand it, "Tarkine Forest Adventures!" ...what's wrong with "dismal swamp???" Anyway the Dismal Swamp is a privately run "eco adventure" thing. There's 40 meter deep sinkhole (I can't find a good "about" page on the internet but the area of the sinkhole is hundreds of hectares actually I think? its big anyway). One drive up and parks in the car park, surrounded by walls of forest. From the gift-shop / cafe / ticketing area one can take "the longest slide in the southern hemisphere" (110 meters) down to the bottom ... for a hefty $25 roo-bucks. Or one can walk down via the lovely and well-maintained boardwalks, which we did.
   Down at the bottom there was a network of these nice boardwalks and it was really lovely being deep in such a delightful swamp. They had lots of informational little signs about the trees and plants, which mom in particular was really excited about. Another remarkable thing I learned from the signs was that there were crayfish who lived on the muddy swamp floor here and made themselves little crayfish towers. We saw their towers but not the crayfish themselves. We enjoyed strolling around the swamp for maybe two hours before dad started to get antsy that we needed to keep a move on for the rest of our planned perambulations. As noted at the beginning of the entry, we found we got a bit lost trying to navigate the unintentionally labyrinthine boardwalks on our way out, but not too badly. All in all I loved the dismal swamps, they were every bit as delightful as I had expected, and more!!



   From there we booked it to the west coast of the island, through mostly bucolic farm countryside. Visited the coast itself and beheld an isolated and idyllic surf beach, but being pressed for time we only looked at it from the car park and got back on the road. Headed south down the coast it was clear this is not the highly populated part of the island, as for miles and miles we saw nothing but brush around the road, and the roadkilled-padme-per-kilometer index was at almost zero. Despite this we saw fairly regular signs advising to be careful not to run over devils from dusk to dawn, as well as signs that appeared to warn of kangaroos lifting one's car, no doubt after having become addicted to human-introduced crossfit ::shakes head sadly::. On our whole coastal drive we only drove through one tiny micro-townlet, it really felt like a very remote and unpeopled coast.

   After half an hour running down parallel to the coast we turned inland (apparently the road continues to a miniscule former town that was once the port to a now closed mine and is now "just a collection of shacks." Our journey inland back into the Tarkine Wilderness led us into alternating forest and cleared land, with signs proclaiming we were witnessing managed sustainable logging or some such. Eventually I believe we entered a protected state forest and the huge surrounding trees were uninterrupted. We also passed several turnoffs just off the road with pallets of beehives on them, which of course we were intrigued to see. The hives had a lot of supers (additional boxes) stacked on top which would seem to indicate they were doing really well, and indeed they all seemed very busy at the entrances. Interesting to note, I'm not sure if anyone reading this is interested in the obscurities of comparative beekeeping, but I was interested to note while most commercial beekeepers in at least the states prefer to give the bees about two "deep" boxes before stacking shallow honey supers on top these operations seemed to use entirely shallows. I've been thinking about doing that if I were to god forbid restart, since I don't like having differing box sizes and am currently using all deeps, which get gosh darn heavy when full of honey.

   There were many many short walk options within the Tarkine Wilderness loop, but we had to zip right past most of them due to our ambition drive plan. Maybe some day I'll get back! ::looks off whistfully into the distance:: We managed to stop at a nice lookout point, and planned to stop to see a "flooded sinkhole" but accidentally zipped past it and there was nowhere to turn around. We did stop at the "Trowutta Arch" though. It consisted of a pleasant half hour walk through what an informational sign described as, I swear, "calidendrous," but I'm feeling a bit consternated because I wanted to double check the spelling and no variation comes up with ANY hits of any kind on Teh Google. But according to the sign this word means "beautiful or park-like forest" and referes to the wide airy space between the trees here under the canopy high above. It was indeed well beautious.


If adventure games taught me anything it's that I need to stand under that vine and type "climb vine"

   The "arch" it turned out was two side-by-side sinkholes which were connected by a big hole. One sinkhole was filled in allowing access and the other had a pool of water in the bottom. Pretty neat!

   From there we more-or-less hoofed it back up to civilization back at Smithton, and used main roads (such as they are in Tasmania) to get to our destination for the night about two hours away. First we traveled east along the coastal road we had come west on and then turned south, and noted that the padme-roadkill-per-kilometer was extremely high (like double digits) on this main corridor in the "relatively" densely populated north. When we got further from the coast it got less populated again and finally just as the sun was settomg we rolled into the little mining town of Waratah which seemed a bit isolated in the mountains. It was both cute and visibly run down, and had pleasant looking ponds right in the center of town. After we established ourselves in our airbnb (a little house that had been brought up to good repair and set up seemingly expressly for this purpose), inspired by platypus crossing signs we went out to see if we could see platypii in the ponds. Sadly no luck, I think the moon was mostly behind clouds again, I remember it being VERY dark. We stumbled through the darkness back to the house to watch some Olympics instead.

   In the morning would we discover we had been on the edge of a precipice? Would we figure out why the famed "Cradle Mountain" is so called? Find out next entry! :D

aggienaut: (Numbat)


THIS my fine friends is a picture that shows ... my complete and utter inability to make a posed smile. I really can't do it. It ends up looking like I'm trying to show you something stuck in my teeth. Hence why I wasn't smiling in two of the three potential profile pictures from my recent entry, and was making a ridiculous sort of "smile" in the third.

So the picture came out looking like I'm freaked out or something, but, you know, its hard to get a good picture from that angle and its the only one that came out with my friend here Winston St Andrews properly in focus. Winston is a "St Andrews Cross" spider and has been riding around with me for four days now, hanging out right there in the passenger seat at head height.



Interesting fact I learned, "Charlotte" of "Charlotte's Web" fame is actually a closely related species (same genus), that looks about the same and is called a "Writing Spider" in the US. So there's a literary tradition of these guys having a personality!

Also I learned that no one knows the purpose of the "decorations" they make in their web. How interesting!

As part of my slow descent into insanity I often find myself saying things like "Hey Winston why don't you roll down the window over there?" or "Hey Winston can you pass me that notebook?" Yes, out loud even.


Also yesterday while I was working I kept hearing branches break above me. I looked around hoping to see a koala or something but couldn't see anything, had to conclude maybe the strong winds we'd been having had just broken a bunch of branches ... and then I finally spied THIS guy:



I believe that's a lace monitor, Australia's second largest goanna. It looked to be about four feet long, with the body mass of a small child. And it was clambering around just over my head -- the lizard of Damocles!

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